An European Vacation / 25 – Home via Solothurn

All good things come to an end, and so it was with our European vacation in the late summer of 2010. The last day of the vacation started at the beautiful Hostellerie du Vignier which I described in episode 23 and ended at the Zurich airport when the evening flight took us home. On the road we stopped for a few hours in the beautiful city of Solothurn.

Solothurn

While the origins of the city date back in the time of the Celts, Solothurn gained its reputation as the most beautiful city of Baroque in Switzerland. Its well preserved old city is one of the most representatives monuments of the period in all German-speaking Europe.

Saint Urs Cathedral

The Saint Urs cathedral is the most imposing religious building in the city. It was built in the 18th century and is dedicated to one of the two patron saints of the city, local martyrs who refused to worship the gods of the Romans.

inside the Saint Urs Cathedral

The spaced interior is quite typical for the Baroque style with lightened walls and decorations by Italian artists.

detail inside the Saint Urs cathedral

Here is one detail which did not fail to draw our attention.

Golgotha series - Saint Urs Cathedral

A series of reliefs describe the stations of the Cross.

dome and ceiling in the Saint Urs cathedral

The complex construction of the ceiling and the round dome lay under the 62 meters high tower which dominates the building and the skyline of the town.

Hotel de la Couronne

Descending the stairs of the cathedral the visitor can find the 16th century building of the Hotel de la Couronne located at the corner of the main street (Hauptstrasse). This area is the older and best kept baroque area of Solothurn.

Zytglogge - clocks

The clock tower building was built in different periods of time. The lower part dates from the 12th century, the higher tower was built in 1467 and the clock and the astronomical device in 1545.

Marktplatz

Solothurn is a city of arts, several festivals and musical events happen here, and the city hosts a few interesting museums. Unfortunately these were closed because it was a Monday.

Jesuit church interior

The second interesting religious building in Solothurn is the Jesuit Church, which was partly in renovation. We could however admire the elegant balconies, the organ and the stuccowork, all dating from around 1680.

Jesuit church - choir and organ

As we crossed the Aare river on a different bridge than the one we came we threw a farewell look to another city which we only had time for a hurry taste. It is always the tourist dilemma – do more but spend few time in each place, or dedicate more time to each of the visited places while missing completely other. This vacation was another opportunity to play this balancing game. We hope to be sometime back.

farewell view over the Aare

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An European Vacation / 24 – Castle of Gruyeres

The tenth and last full day of our vacation was spent in the small medieval town and castle of Gruyeres.

castle of Gruyeres

The silhouette of the fortress dominates the landscape and is visible from many kilometers away. It was built by the counts of Gruyeres who owned it from the 10th to the 16th century, to be then taken over by the city of Fribourg. The tourists need to park the car down the hill and then perform the steep climb by feet.

on the streets of the medieval town

After crossing the gate we were welcome by the streets of the medieval town. They are charming and picturesque but very commercialized.

entrance to H R Giger Museum

One of my principal objectives was a visit to the H.R. Giger Museum. I am a big fan of the works and world of the artist – and the museum offers an interesting gathering of paintings, sculptures, sketches and reproductions of sets he created for many science-fiction films.

a coffee at H R Giger

Unfortunately taking pictures is not possible in the museum, the only place which could be photographed was the bar near the museum also created by Giger.

glasswork in the castle

Our visit continued in the fortress itself (the Giger Museum occupies space which belong to the annexes of the castle).

Corot's room

The castle was acquired in 1848 by two rich families from Geneva, the Bovys and the Ballands, who restaured and decorated the castle in a mix of styles that combined some of the existing historical elements and other according to the tastes of the Swiss haute bourgeoisie in the second half of the 19th century. A room decorated with paintings by Corot is one example of the latest.

tapestry in the castle

Flemish tapestries are among the most interesting objects related to the older periods of the history of the castle.

the art gallery

Taken back into custody by the cantonal government of Fribourg in 1938 the castle hosts nowadays a variety of cultural events, concerts and exhibitions. An art gallery is part of the castle and can be visited together with the other sections of the building.

lake Gruyere seen from the fortress

Climbing up to the highest towers offers a beautiful view of the region. Here is a view towards North with the Gruyeres lake. The medieval town and the fortress are located at the Southern extremity of the lake.

the garden of the castle

A splendid garden can also be viewed best from the towers.

Giger - A la conquete de la Toison d'Or

Some of the works in the gallery are dedicated or inspired by the place. For example the painting above by Giger himself.

tower gallery

Here is a spectacular staircase in one of the towers, with paintings on the walls. It also seems inspired or maybe has inspired one of Giger’s labyrinths.

Lancelot beer

At lunch time the town can be quite crowded, especially on a busy day blessed with beautiful weather and finding a place to eat was not easy. We were lucky to discover the Hostellerie St-Georges and its creperie bretonne which was quite interesting. We also discovered an unexpectedly good French beer named Lancelot.

waving the flag

Back in the streets we saw some acrobatic numbers using … the Swiss flag.

one last view to the castle

We last saluted the flag on our way down from the castle.

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Carte: Marek Halter – Maria

Undeva in postfata cartii sale Marek Halter scrie despre imaginea Mariei:

‘De-a lungul celor catorva ani necesari cercetarilor pentru redactarea acestui roman care si-a propus sa contureze portretul Mariei “mele”, m-am straduit sa-mi imaginez cum ar fi putut fi aceasta Miriam din Nazaret, nascuta in Galileea. O femeie in carne si oase care, dupa traditia iudaica, a trait in regatul haotic al Israelului in anul 3760 dupa Facerea lumii de catre Cel Vesnic, an care va deveni cel dintai al erei crestine.

Ori, ceea ce se consemneaza in Evanghelii despre maica lui Iisus incape pe o foita. Un vid care a infierbantat imaginatia autorilor de apocrife care au inflorit pana in epoca Renasterii, demni romancieri ai timpuui lor.’ (p. 369)

Locul evangheliilor apocrife a fost luat in epoca moderna de romanele populare, si ultimii ani de renastere religioasa in varii zone ale lumii (si ma voi abtine la a comenta cauzele si profunzimea acestei renasteri) au condus la aparitia a catorva biografii romantate ale personajului Marei, ocolit o vreme de genul de fictiune biblica. Asa am ajuns si eu (surprinzator pentru mine insumi) sa citesc in decurs de doua luni doua carti in acest gen. Comparatia cu ‘Fata din Nazaret’ a lui Petru Popescu este acum inevitabila.

Este prima carte a lui Marek Halter pe care o citesc (in traducerea in limba romana a Dianei Morarasu aparuta la editura Nemira in 2009). Nascut in 1936 la Varsovia, Halter este un supravietuitor al ghetto-ului varsovian. Ajuns in Franta dupa razboi a studiat pantomima cu Marcel Marceau si a facut pictura. Sotia sa este o cunoscuta artista plastica, si amandoi sunt implicati incepand din perioada razboiului de sase zile in problemele Orientuui Apropriat si in eforturile pentru apropriere intre evrei si arabi. Cariera sa de scriitor in ultimele decenii include mai ales variante romantate ale perioadelor diverse ale istoriei evreilor. ‘Maria’ insa desi pleaca dela o perspectiva evreiasca si explica anumite elemente de fundal si evolutia personajelor prin prisma traditiei si a religiei evreiesti adopta un punct de vedere mai apropriat de crestinism, sau cel putin de o interpretare populara a crestinismului.

Marek Halter - source un.org

Perioada din viata Mariei surprinsa de Halter este identica cu cea din romanul lui Popescu, incepand la varsta pubertatii si continuand pana aproape de nasterea Mantuitorului pentru a include o varianta a sfintei conceptiuni. Multe trasaturi de caracter sunt similare cum ar fi setea de cunoastere, o darzenie si o perseverenta care depasesc limitele naturalului. Ambele Marii sunt caractere pasionale, capabile sufleteste de iubiri reale (unele chiar ‘interzise’) dar renunta la ele in favoarea chemarii divine, ambele sunt feministe ‘avant-la-lettre’ refuzand rolul secundar in care sunt plasate a priori ca femei de conceptiile religiei iudaice. Ambele sunt profund atasate si influentate de personalitatea tatalui Ioachim, ale carui conflicte cu stapanirea lui Irod trezesc constiinta nationala in inimile lor de tinere fete si le creaza un profil de luptatoare impotriva ocupatiei romane si a represiunii anti-evreiesti.Cele doua carti propun reabilitarea cate unuia dintre ‘negativii’ naratiunii evanghelice traditionale. Daca Petru Popescu il alege pe Pilat din Pont, la Marek Halter cel selectat pentru cel putin o partiala reabilitare istorica este Baraba, repozitionat din talharul gratiat de Pilat in luptator evreu pentru eliberarea de sub jugul roman, care spre deosebire de Maria si adeptii ei (si ai lui Iisus mai tarziu) alege calea violentei pentru salvarea unui singur popor.

Pana aici asemanarile, dar exista si multe diferente intre viziunile celor doi autori. In timp ce Petru Popescu anticipeaza in discursurile unora dintre personajele sale originile antisemitismului, Halter (care este de origine evreiasca) evita sa comenteze in vreun fel acest aspect abordand o viziune mai ecumenica. Mult mai vasta este la Halter perspectiva diverselor curente ale iudaismului in epoca premegatoare aparitiei crestinismului, si aici autorul trage o linie directa intre dizidenta esenienilor si primii crestini.  De asemenea este mai completa descrierea din ‘Maria’ a atmosferei apocaliptice si a falsilor profeti aparuti ca ciupercile – fenomen caracteristic perioadelor de deznadejde nationala si de dezorientare ideologica:

‘Lipsiti de orice alt sprijin, dispretuiti de bogatanii de la Ierusalim si de preotii Templului, amaritii isi puneau toata speranta in oratorii iscusiti, in falsii profeti si in palavragiii neputinciosi care umpleau cetatile si targurile. Tunand discursuri teribile in care amenintarile se amestecau cu promisiunile unor intamplari supra-naturale, acesti coate goale se pretindeau profetii vremurilor noi. Numai ca prorocirile lor semanau ca niste picaturi de apa. Nu erau decat niste miasme incarcate de ura impotriva oamenilor si scenarii apocaliptice nascute de imaginatii bolnave, avide de pedepse cumplite. Ca si cum singura dorinta a celor ce se proclamau puri, piosi si exemplari, era de a adauga si teroarea la disperarea care oricum pusese stapanire peste tot neamul lui Israel. Niciunul nu incerca sa aduca nici cea mai mica alinare pentru ranile pe care le denuntau cu totii.’ (pag. 192)

Abandonarea (pana la deformarea conceptelor) viziunii iudaice si asumarea narativului crestin atinge extrema in fragmente cum este cel in care Maria predica abandonarea conceptului de popor ales:

‘ – Oare nu v-ati gandit niciodata ca s-ar putea ca Domnul Cel Vesnic sa fi incheiat Legamantul cu neamul nostru doar ca o prima etapa? Tocmai pentru ca noi sa fim aceia care intind mana tuturor femeilor si tuturor barbatilor din lume? Asa cred eu. Da, cred ca Yahve asteapta de la noi mai multa iubire fata de toti barbatii si de toate femeile de pe fata Pamantului, fara exceptie.’ (pag. 190)

Ambele carti le-am citit in traducere, asa incat o comparatie stilistica este influentata sau include si calitatea traducerilor. Marek Halter scrie mult mai fluent decat Petru Popescu, lectura este usoara dar impresia generala este de superficialitate, inclusiv cateva gafe de genul folosirii repetate a masurarii distantelor in kilometri (‘La douazeci, douazeci si cinci de kilometri spre nord se intrezareau gurile Iordanului, ascunse intr-o ceata laptoasa’ – pag, 100 – N.B. vizibilitatea in conditii perfecte ziua este de 16 kilometri). Nici folosirea de catre vechii evrei ai lui Marek a numelui explicit al divinitatii nu mi se pare potrivita. Mai simpla si mai concisa viziunea si limbajul din cartea lui Petru Popescu sunt mult mai autentice.

source www.nemira.ro

O naratiune biblica avand in centrul ei figura Sfintei Fecioare trebuie s furnizeze si o explicatie a conceptiunii lui Iisus. Halter alege aici optiunea de a nu explica nimic, Maria declarandu-si sarcina dupa nopti de peregrinari si fervoare mistica. Si aici solutia lui Petru Popescu mi s-a parut superioara, cel putin din punct de vedere literar.

Finalul cartii lui Marek Halter aduce o perspectiva diferita si surprinzatoare prin atasarea unui element auto-biografic legat de Holocaust si de descoperirea unei evanghelii apocrife al carei autor este insasi Maria. Exercitiul mi s-a parut fortat si efectul ratat. Povestea evangheliei copiate si transmise timp de doua mii de ani de familii evreiesti este complet neplauzibila din multe puncte de vedere. Amestecarea Holocaustului in narativ este artificiala. Ne alegem totusi cu o relatare interesanta a anilor de formare si a dobandirii de catre Iisus a constiintei de sine ca Mesiah inclusiv a rolului Mariei, pentru ca cartea sa se incheie cu o varianta explicativa a Invierii care are logica narativa, dar care poate fi discutabila in ochii unor teologi sau credinciosi crestini.

‘Maria’ lui Marek Halter este o carte bine scrisa, care se citeste usor si cu placere, si care are in centrul ei o personalitate si evenimente cruciale in istoria omenirii. Am pomenit in notele mele de lectura cateva aspecte discutabile, dar as vrea totusi sa luati acestea la o invitatie la lectura si la o interpretare pozitiva in acest caz a notiunii de ‘discutabil’ – deci si ca o invitatie la discutie.

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Lipsett Diaries

The ARTE European TV chain brought last week at late night hours an outstanding Canadian short animation film. The name is ‘Lipsett Diaries’ and I found on the Internet two Web sites dedicated to this film, which received several important prizes at animation and short film festivals in 2010.

http://www.lipsettdiaries.net/

http://films.nfb.ca/lipsett-diaries/

I did not find the film on the Internet but the trailer can give you a good idea about the exquisite graphics of the film. It’s not special effects visuals, it is hand work which gives you the string feeling that you are watching a work of art, same as if you find yourself in a museum.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5235zMF_gwg

(video source nfb)

The name of the artist is Theodore Ushev. He is born in Bulgaria and now lives in Montreal. Some of his works can be seen at http://www.nfb.ca/explore-by/director/Theodore-Ushev/.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gau3sWjJ2Ho

(video source nfb)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WO0tFOJjGbg

(video source nfb)

Here he is talking about his film which is dedicated to another figure of the Canadian art film – Arthur Lipsett (1936-1986). An animator, experimenter and author of short films himself, Lipsett was known and influenced such directors as Kubrick (who asked him to do a trailer for ‘Dr. Strangelove’ which unfortunately was never completed) and Lucas.  One of his short films earned an Oscar nomination. He never however fulfilled his destiny to become a great name in a world where commercial cinema dominates and little room is left for innovation and creation. This is what Ushev’s film is about.

A well written and detailed text about Upsett and his cinema is available at http://www.sensesofcinema.com/2004/great-directors/lipsett/.

(video source xezene1)

Here is a gem I found on youTube: Lipsett’s first film ‘Very Nice, Very Nice’. A couple of more films of his can be seen at http://www.nfb.ca/explore-by/director/Arthur-Lipsett.


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Film: 2012 (2009)

After having destroyed a few times on very big screens Manhattan, Washington DC, the United States and the whole North America it was time for director Roland Emmerich to get to the ultimate stuff – destroying the planet. What better pretext to do this than the Mayan prediction that the end of the world will happen on 12/21/12 – neither sooner nor later? So here we have the Hollywood version of the Apocalypse with no angels or saviors in sight, humanity is on its own. Sun and planets align, the core of Earth overheats, the crust cracks and the whole humanity is swallowed by huge earthquakes and tidal waves as high as the Himalayas.

source www.imdb.com

Well, almost the whole humanity. As in any other disaster films we do have our handful of survivors, some are bright scientists and some just your neighborhood mid-class Americans who will raise to the call of the hour. Inevitably there are some smart kids, ex-es who cancel their ex-ing one minute between the end of time and an American president who is too good or too smart to be elected but in the movies, etc., etc. Does this seem known? Well, because it really is. It’s the same old, tired formula, and dialogs are worst than in many other such films, and situations are less then less than credible. But maybe the end of the world is not credible. Or is it?

(video source SonyPictures)

If the script of 2012 is an unbelievable collection of cliches and dialogs competing for the most stupid lines ever said in a movie, the viewer is left with the special effects and on the good side these are really first class. Of course, everything is completely incredible, but the fun of watching the heroes escaping the sinking of California in the mother of all cars chases, or the series of monumental tsunamis destroying all the wonders of the world plus the UNESCO-protected monuments one of the other is undeniable. A 5 year old can fully enjoy this film. Most 15 years old will consider it crap. Those older then 55 (me included) may also enjoy it provided that they place themselves in the mindset of 5 years old kids.

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An European Vacation / 23 – Hostellerie du Vignier

Hostellerie du Vignier

We spent the last two nights of the vacation in one of the most beautiful places we have ever been in on the surface of Earth. we turned out of the road descending from (the Swiss) Fribourg to the shore of the lake of Geneve (Lehman) to the area of Gruyere near the lake of the same name (also giving its name to the famous cheeses).  Six kilometers before the small town of Gruyeres with its castle which we were to visit the next day we found on a curve of the road the small hotel and restaurant Hostellerie du Vignier.

lac de la Gruyere

Although we were prepared for a picturesque place the landscape that can be seen from the hotels windows or from the terrace of the two restaurants in the hotel is unique. The lake can be seen in all its splendor towards South, with an island and an elegant bridge with a classical shape reminding the paintings of the Renaissance masters.

a closer view

A funny episode happened on the road to the hotel. We were stopped by traffic police on an almost empty road. Routine check I guess, and they were so intrigued and interested to check my Israeli driving license – probably the first of its kind they had ever seen.

sunset over the lake

The hotel kept by an energetic couple named Claude and Christine Jaccottet has seven rooms and two restaurants. If you book a room I strongly recommend that you ask (and pay for) a room with view to the lake, very much worth the extra 20 CHF. The only thing that did not work as advertised was the Internet in the rooms, but this was a good reason to go down and have a glass of wine on the terrace. Breakfast is also quite basic especially when compared with the food in the restaurants.

restaurant gastronomique

There are two restaurants at the Hostellerie du Vignier. Customers come not only from the hotel clients but from the village and cities around, as the place is famous for is cuisine. Booking for dinner is recommended especially at the restaurant gastronomique which has only a few tables, even if you stay at the hotel.

pour faire le palais

We dined the first evening in the more expensive restaurant gastronomique. The haut-cuisine menu changes a few time a year, I see that by December it was different than the one we were served with in September and by February it will change again after a break for a period of a month and a half during which the hotel is closed.

le filet de bison

We had a beautiful three course menu with a sophisticated salad as a starter, a filet de bison et sa compote d’endives au miel et au thym as main course for me …

les meringues

and the meringues et la crème double de la Gruyère as desert for Liliana with a plate of French and Swiss cheeses for me.

Hurlevent

This was the wine – we tried one of the Swiss brands which they call their best kept secret and is actually consumed almost in totality in Switzerland. The slopes descending to the lake of Geneve are actually one of the best vineyards areas in the country.

entree a la brasserie

The next day we dined at the brasserie which has a less expensive menu – yet quite attractive and nicely presented as well. Here is the starter.

Chardonnay Domaine Jean-René Germanier

The wine that evening was a delicious Chardonnay.

night over lake Gruyere

We took a few more photos when night fell down over the lake. It’s a great location for visiting the Gruyeres area and a great place to stay and eat. Highly recommended!

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An European Vacation / 22 – Basel

The 9th day of our vacation took us back across the French – Swiss border to Basel and then to the area of Gruyere where we have booked the hotel for the last two nights. Incidentally it was the only border crossing were some form of control was exercised but with Swiss-registered car and our European faces made the border control as easy as a hand-waving.

on the streets of Basel

We had planned to spend most of the day in Basel and wrote down a couple of fine museums and the Basel Munster. We soon realized that this is by no means a city that deserves much more time, so we gave up on visiting the Munster and the Tinguely Museum. It’s certainly a city to come back some time later for a few days.

Kunstmuseum Basel - source reisen-und-entdecken.de

We so decided to spend a few hours in the Kunstmuseum Basel – The Museum of Fine Arts. This fine institution which has a tradition that started with the collection of art of the city of Basel in the 17th century unfortunately has a policy that forbids photographing and even the Web site has very few reproductions. Trust me – it is one of the finest art museums in Europe and very much worth a one day visit for the art lovers, with collections that include masterpieces starting with medieval German art, Flemish masters, French classical painting, Impressionists and Expressionists.

Kunstmuseum Basel waiting for Light Stripes

The courtyard of the Museum being the only place I could take photos here are the preparations for the Light Stripes – an open air event that was to open that night – imagine the stripes in the light of the evening.

Les Bourgeois de Calais

Also in the courtyard a version of Rodin’s Bourgeois de Calais could be admired (and photographed). At least we could visit Andy Warhol’s Early Sixties works exhibition before almost everybody else, one day before its opening. The exhibition is still open.

approaching Gruyere

Declaring defeat and promising to ourselves that we will get back to Basel, its museums, monuments, streets dedicating it the time it deserves we headed south. We passed Bern which we had already visited during our previous Swiss vacation and descended towards the Gruyere area. One of the most beautiful places on the surface of Earth was waiting for us. The next episode will be dedicated to it.

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Film: ‘Gainsbourg (Vie heroique)’ (Joann Sfar, 2010)

source http://en.wikipedia.org/

Where does this amazing film come from? Who is Joann Sfar, a director I never heard about before? The easiest answer at hand was the wikipedia entry which tells us that Sfar is a well known comics author in the fabulous French-Belgian tradition. He is of Jewish origin, and his next film is an adaptation of one of his comics successes called The Rabbi’s Cat.

source www.imdb.com

And suddenly all makes sense. The opening scenes of the film contain the key of the biography of French musician and poet Serge Gainsbourg as imagined by Sfar. We see Lucien Ginzburg, a Jewish kid in occupied Paris during WWII daring not only to laugh in fronde at the nose of the collaborationist police by being the first in line to receive his yellow Star of David as a sign of nobility rather than an anathema, but moreover, to transform in his mind and his sketch drawings  the fat rapacious Jew on the Vichy posters in the thin, stylish, long nose and big years Gueule – the alter-ego who will guide his steps and feed his revenging self-confidence for the rest of his life.

source http://bestforfilm.com/

The combination of acting and cartoon is not a new thing, but it has never been tried before in a biopic to the best of my knowledge. Sure, it is not the usual respectful biopic but it’s the vision of Sfar about Ginzburg – Gainsbourg, and Sfar as he says in the final text that runs before the credits was more interested about Gainsbourg’s lies than by his perceived truths.  Moreover, for sure Gainsbourg himself would not have appreciated a respectful film. Ironically under-titled Vie heroique (heroic life) the film takes us though the artistic and especially womanizing career of Gainsbourg from the early 50s to the late 70s. We see him in the company of such French cultural icon as Boris Vian and especially of fabulous women such as Juliette Greco, Brigitte Bardot and Jane Birkin (and actually the list in the film is very partial). I enjoyed each of the scenes in this part of the film which combine style, attention to details (just follow how fashion changes marking the progress of time) and deep understanding of the atmosphere of the Parisian clubs and artistic milieu in the mythic mid-20 century. His Gueule alter-ego mentors him though this trip and when he decides to renounce his patronizing, it’s the beginning of the end – the charisma goes away and the effects of his excesses slowly destroy him. Maybe a little more of his art would have provided an even more complex and balanced image of the person that Gainsbourg was – this would be my only observation.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FKn_LQLslwM
(video source theindependent)

The choice of Eric Elmosnino as Gainsbourg is excellent, he drives the character from the insecurity of the young age to the decay of the end, all the time with charm and deep empathy. He proves a perfect understanding of the intentions of the director and a full identification with the identity dilemmas of the French-Jewish Gainsbourg. Laetitia Casta is a perfect replica of Bardot. Lucy Gordon is mastering very well Jane Birkin‘s role. Her maturity makes even harder to explain the suicide of the young actress a few days before the film was presented in avant-premiere at Cannes.

(video source  infolivetvenglish)

Gainsbourg (vie heroique) is a complex work about France in the 20th century and about one of its major artists. For the readers of The Catcher here is a clip that throws light on another dimension of Gainsbourg, not mentioned in the film.

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Carte: Mihail Sebastian – De doua mii de ani …

Iata o carte care are un destin unic sau in orice caz foarte rar in posteritate si anume faptul ca prefata sa este mult mai citita si mai comentata decat cartea insasi. Incercand sa schimb ceva in acest dezechilibru nefiresc am hotarit sa fac un exercitiu mental si sa-mi imaginez cum ar fi aratat aceasta carte si care ar fi fost impactul ei daca nu ar fi existat faimoasa prefata a lui Nae Ionescu. Am citit deci romanul, am ignorat prefata si scriu acum doar despre textul lui Sebastian.

Am spus ‘romanul’ dar ar fi de discutat si aici carui gen ii apartine exact ‘De doua mii de ani ….’ Multe romane sunt scrise in stil sau structura de jurnal, dar in acest caz este vorba despre mult mai mult de atat. Biografia eroului principal cuprinde atatea date auto-biografice, evenimentele politice si fundalul social sunt descrise cu o asemenea veridicitate incat romanul pare in multe dintre sectiunile sale a fi mai mult jurnal. Este oarecum in oglinda cu adevaratul ‘Jurnal’ al lui Mihail Sebastian, caci daca ‘De doua mii de ani …’ este un roman cu structura si multe pagini de jurnal autentic, ‘Jurnalul’ apartine genului memorialistic, dar multe dintre paginile sale au o incarcatura literara de domeniul mai degraba al fictiunii. As mai face o observatie care pe mine m-a tulburat – ‘De doua mii de ani’ este publicat in 1934,  ‘Jurnalul’ incepe in 1935, adica exact acolo unde se termina romanul. Sa-l fi scris Sebastian cel putin la inceput cu intentia de a continua sub o forma sau alta romanul si a-i da o alta turnura sau rescriere, si apoi razboiul si moartea sa fi curmat aceste planuri? Nu vom sti niciodata.

Titlul romanului vine de la lamentarea lui Moritz Bercovici – negustor pe Strada Mare a Brailei care incearca sa explice cauzele istorice ale prigoanei anti-evreiesti. Aceasta incercare este preluata si dezvoltata de autor in restul cartii din perspectiva unui tanar evreu in formare intre cele doua razboaie mondiale, sfasaiat in dilemele identitare si in pozitionarea sa intre doua lumi – cea a traditiei evreiesti de care incearca sa se desprinda, care in anumite momente i se pare a fi un balast, dar care ii da in final puterea de a supravietui si a razbi si cea a lumii cosmopolite, neevreiesti, cu diversitatea sa culturala, cu comorile si mirajele sale care il atrag dar si cu repingatoarele prejudecati care il resping. Dilema aceasta este dilema pe care a trait-o si Sebastian si pe care o descrie in intreaga sa opera – el, scriitorul roman de mare talent, autorul de romane si de piese de teatru care descriu trairile si visele burgheziei si intelectualitatii romanesti care este in acelasi timp evreul respins de nationalismul romanesc, pus la index si redus la categoria de fiinta umana inferioara de societatea romaneasca interbelica si apoi de regimul politic romanesc din timpul celui de-al doilea razboi mondial.

‘… daca as putea sa trec peste doua mii de ani de talmudism si melancolie, sa am inca odata, presupunand ca cineva din neamul nostru a avut-o vreodata, bucuria limpede de a vietui …’ (pag. 51)

‘Sa fugi de tine o zi, doua, douazeci nu e usor, dar nici imposibil. Faci matematici sau marxism ca S.T.H., faci sionism ca Winkler, citesti carti ca mine, umbli dupa femei sau joci sah, sau te dai cu capul de pereti. Dar intr-o zi, intr-un minut de neatentie, te intalnesti cu tine insuti la un colt de suflet, cum te-ai intalni la un colt de strada cu un creditor de care te-ai ferit zadarnic. Dai ochii cu tine si atunci intelegi cat de inutile sunt toate evadarile din aceasta inchisoare fara ziduri, fara porti si fara gratii, din aceasta inchisoare care este insasi viata ta.’ (pag. 63)

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Probemele identitare se afla in centrul romanului, inclusiv permanenta oscilare intre doua lumi care il atrag si il resping in acelasi timp si tentatia de a se deprinde definitiv de lumea in care s-a nascut:

‘Ce i-as reprosa antisemitismului, inainte de orice, daca mi-as recunoaste calitatea de judecator, ar fi lipsa lui de imaginatie: “masonerie, camatarie, omor ritual” – si pe urma?

Vai cat de putin! vai cat de sarac!

Cea mai scazuta constiinta de evreu, cea mai de rand inteligenta ovreiasca isi descopera sie insasi pacate nesfarsit mai grave, obscuritati nemasurat mai grele, catastrofe incomparabil mai rasturnatoare.

Inteleg foarte bine de ce un renegat evreu este mai crunt decat orice specie de renegat. El duce cu sine o umbra care, cu cat o va calca mai rau in picioare, cu atat va fi mai aproape de el. Si faptul de a se dezice de neamul lui, faptul propriu-zis al renegarii este inca o data un act iudaic, fiinca noi toti, in sinea noastra, ne lepadam de noi, de zece ori, de o mie de ori, reintorsi insa mereu acasa, din vrerea cuiva care trebuie sa fie Dumnezeu insusi.’ (pag. 66)

Ca roman ‘De doua mii de ani’ este un roman ratat. Sunt rare momentele care se aseamana cu restul productiei de romancier a lui Sebastian, cum ar fi cele care aduc in pagina atmosfera Bucurestilor interbelici cu o legatura de dragoste intamplatoare, sau Braila reprezentata ca o combinatie de targ evreiesc si spatiu geografic cu care autorul se identifica. Sebastian nu insista insa pe aceste directii, caci teza este mai importanta pentru el in carte decat scrisul romancier si stilul. Rezultatul este ca de exemplu portretele de evrei sunt dintre cele mai schematice – vanzatorul de carti Abraham Sulitzer, sionistul Winkler sau comunistul S.T. Haim nu sunt mai mult decat stereotipuri desi uneori Sebatian le pune in seama replici memorabile. ‘Cum vei coloniza un popor de 15-17 milioane intr-o tara de trei judete?’ (pag. 97) este o fraza zguduitoare prin premonitie, in perspectiva Holocaustului si celor ce au urmat si pe care scriitorul nu le-a mai trait. In final tot el isi pune personajele cel mai bine in pagina: ‘M-am inselat putin. Abraham Sulitzer nu e un domn decat ca sot in raporturile cu madam Roza. Ca intelectual, insa, in raporturile lui cu ideile, devine categoric si asupritor. Aparand ghetoul, nu este mai putin intolerant decat Winkler aparand sionismul si nici decat S.T.Haim injurandu-le pe amandoua. Absolutul este viciul lor comun.’ (pag. 11)

Mult prea flexibil in structura sa intelectuala si mult prea deschis in viziune pentru a adopta vreunul dintre aceste absoluturi, personajul alter ego al romanului isi cauta locul in lumea intelectuala si realizarea in lumea profesionala romaneasca. Nici aici receptia nu i-a fost usoara, si aici partiala si temporara integrare se va termina in respingere. Colegi sau prieteni isi dezvaluie dupa ani de zile de amicitie sau chiar mai mult, antisemitismul latent. Cei doi poli ai lumii intelectuale romanesti sunt simbolizati in carte de nationalismul economistului Ghita Blidaru si de cosmopolitismul arhitectului Mircea Vieru. Din nou personaje tipice pentru cele doua mari curente intelectuale ale lumii romanesti de la vremea lui Maiorescu si a semanatoristilor pana la izbucnirea dictaturilor care au curmat cursul firesc al istoriei romanesti, inclusiv a istoriei ideilor. Dialogul dintre reprezentantii lor are loc in conferinte si articole de ziar. Iata-l pe Vieru raspunzand unei anchete a ‘Universului’ despre specificul national: ‘”Specificul national” exista fara indoiala. In arta, el este intrunirea tuturor locurilor comune. Gradul de specificitate indica astfel si gradul de platitudine. De aceea a crea inseamna meru depasirea acestui specific.‘ (pag. 149) La aceasta replica lui Blidaru vine intr-o conferinta la facultate: ‘Intrebarea mea este daca cineva are dreptul de a avea geniu impotriva necesitatilor pamantului pe care traieste’ (pag. 151) Mihail Sebastian cunostea bine materia, discutia are o autenticitate care ma face sa ma intreb daca nu cumva frazele sunt extrase din articole si conferinte reale ale vremii. Dar nu numai in disputele culturale romanesti este Sebastian expert, in capitolul parizian al cartii el identifica tipare intelectuale si ideologice similare cu cele lasata acasa. Personajul lui Maurice Buret, inca un arhetip, cel al antisemitismului intelectual francez si un element al demonstrarii unei alte teze a lui Sebastian care s-a adeverit in mod dureros, aceea ca antisemitismul are o esenta universala care transcende granitele si prapastiile culturale.

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Reintoarcerea de la Paris il readuce pe erou nu in atmosfera tarii pe care o parasise parca ceva mai pusa pe roate in pragul crizei economice, cu ani in urma, ci in imbacseala manifestarilor antisemite asa cum le cunoscuse pe vremea studentiei in anul 1923 (Sebastian este de altfel cam singurul scriitor roman care descrie in cartile sale perioada primei ascensiuni a nationalismului romanesc imediat dupa primul razboi mondial). Pe strazile Bucurestiului anilor 30 amenintarea este din nou concreta:

‘In colt, spre bulevardul Elisabeta, era un grup de baieti in uniforme care vindeau ziare. “Misterele Cahalului!Moarte jidanilor!”

Nu stiu de ce m-am oprit. De obicei, trec linistit mai departe, fiindca strigatul asta e vechi, aproape familiar. De asta data, am ramas surprins locului, ca si cum abia in acest moment as fi inteles pentru prima oara sensul acestor silabe. E ciudat. Oamenii astia vorbesc despre moarte, si anume despre moartea mea. Iar eu trec neatent pe lnaga ei, cu gandul la alte lucruri, auzindu-i doar pe jumatate.

Oare de ce o fi atat de usor sa se arunce pe o strada romaneasca strigatul de “moarte” fara ca nimeni sa intoarca macar capul?’ (pag. 225)

Intrebarea a ramas fara raspuns si urmarile tragice in istoria Romaniei sunt cunoscute. Sebastian a cautat o solutie personala:

‘A discuta despre o solutie politica a problemei ovreiesti este pentru mine ceva cu totul desert. Ma intereseaza o singura solutie, si anume cea psihologica, cea spirituala. Cred ca singurul chip in care se poate lamuri ceva in aceasta veche durere este sa incerc a rezolva eu, de unul singur, pentru propria mea viata, nodul de adversitati si conflicte ce ma leaga in viata romaneasca.’ (pag. 247)

Eroare de apreciere i-a fost fatala lui Sebastian. ‘De doua mii de ani …’ este o carte inegala literar, dar unica prin claritatea prin care expune dilemele generatiei sale.

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Ramon Valle in Tel Aviv

After missing one concert due to some medical adventures I was back last Friday at the Tel Aviv Museum of Art hall for the third concert in the Hot Jazz series. The guests of the evening were the Ramon Valle Trio.

 

Ramon Valle trio - photo Mariana Smilovici

 

Classifying pianist Ramon Valle’s music does not conform easily within any pre-defined label. Born in Cuba in 1964 his formation mixes classical music, traditional Cuban sounds and jazz. While influenced initially by such models as Herbie Hancock or Chick Corea he found soon his own voice, his style melding various influences and adding a flamboyant personality that makes it sound a little bit of all and much more.

 

Ramón Valle Trío en el Festival Internacional de Jazz del Teatro Libre 2010 from Javier Egas on Vimeo.

(source http://vimeo.com/)

For the last few years Valle is based in Amsterdam and sings with his own trio with whom he came to Tel Aviv, His partners in the trio are bassist Omar Rodriguez Calvo and drummer Owen Hart jr. Rodriguez Calvo is an exceptional musician himself, one of these very few bass players who make you feel that the bass is an instrument capable of much more expression than the traditional rhythmic and counter-melodic role that it plays traditionally in the various jazz formats.

 

Ramon Valle - photo Mariana Smilovici

In the concert in Tel Aviv Valle and his trio played a programmed base largely on their last CD Playground. Most of the pieces were composed by Valle, with a couple of additions from Coltrane and Cuban composers. It was a wonderful evening of jazz, sounds filled the space from the very first moments, with songs usually starting with brilliant theme introductions by Valle’s piano, and continuing with generous sections of solos for the other two musicians. The audience responded accordingly with one of the hottest reception a band or musician received lately in this hall. I also bought the CD and I hope to find time to review it soon for The Catcher.  

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