An European Vacation / 21 – Art in Colmar and around

Enjoying art is one of my preferred activities during a vacation, and Colmar is really the place to be for such delights. Although it’s a relatively small city it has a remarkable concentration of old churches and museums hosting beautiful pieces of art from the medieval period to the principal currents of art in the 20th century. We dedicated almost the full 8th day of our vacation to visiting the art places in Colmar, with one short jump to the city of St. Louis for visiting another art exhibition we heard about in Strasbourg and which seemed interesting.

Virgin of the Rose Bower - source superstock.com

The first stop was in the Dominican Church – Eglise des Dominicains. Once a cathedral the impressive church hosts one of the masterpieces of the Renaissance local master Martin Schongauer – The Virgin of the Rose Bower (la Vierge au Buisson de Roses), a work which despite its dimensions has an air of delicacy and intimacy. Unfortunately photography is not allowed in the church, so I need to use a photo which I found on the Internet and I cannot expand more on the stained glass windows or on a series of paintings representing the Stations of the Cross belonging to a German artist at the end of the 19th century.

cloisters yard at Musee d'Unterlinden

We then spent a few hours in the most important museum in Colmar – Musee d’Unterlinden.. It was open in 1849 on a location which was a convent for five centuries, and some of the collections are actually hosted by the former cloisters rooms. The collections range from antiquities, medieval and Renaissance art, history and local crafts, up to 20th century paintings plus exhibitions of contemporary art. We had a pick of almost everything during our visit.

Holbein - Portrait de femme

Here are a few of the many splendid works that drew our attention. Portrait of a Woman by Holbein to start with.

Cranach - La crucifixion

A simple but so expressive composition of the Crucifixion by Cranach the Elder.

Martin Schongauer - St Michel

The local master Schongauer is an artist of choice in the museum. Here is a lytography representing St Michael …

Martin Schongauer - L'Annonciation

… and a fragment of a piece of altar imagining The Annunciation.

restauration

A special section of the museum in the former chapel of the convent is dedicated to the masterpiece of Matthias Grunewald at the beginning of the 16th century for the altar of the monastery at Issenheim. Restoration work is ongoing on parts of the altarpiece as well as on other works belonging to painters from the school of Martin Schongauer.

the altarpiece in the chappel

The chapel itself is a beautiful piece of architecture, extremely well lit in natural light, which is quite rare for such Gothic style enclosures. The altarpiece was brought here in 1793, probably after the closure of the monastery in Issenheim during the revolutionary period.

(video source pietro68bleu)

I found a youTube film that presents the polyptych (14 pieces of painting and a few sculptures).

le retable d'Issenheim - 2

Here are a couple of more photos of details. A temptation of Saint Antoine (patron of the monastery at Isenheim) brings up an imagery that reminds Bosch.

le retable d'Issenheim - 3

The painted wood sculptures complete and complement the painted panels in a masterful style that bridges between the medieval religious sculpture and the baroque compositions.

Joe Downing - Totem

An abrupt change of styles and period dictated by our order of visiting of the museum took us next to a temporary exhibition of an artist which I knew nothing before. The name is Joe Downing, and he was an American who lived and painted in France for a big part of his life. Discovered by Picasso after the second world war his work in different periods combines an abstract style with sophisticated composition and colors that reminded me Gustav Klimt. Above is one of the later works (he died in 2007) – a beautiful construction from multiple panels of wood recreating a totem from an unknown civilization venerating arts.

Victor Brauner - Hommage a Marcel Duchamps

It was not the last discovery in the modern art section of the museum. A Homage to Marcel Duchamps belonging to Romanian-born Jewish French painter Victor Brauner drew my attention with the integrated Jewish symbols.

Jeanne Coppel - Sans titre

The next discovery was a couple of collage works of another Jewish painter born in Romania in the town of Galatzi – Jeanne Coppel, also promoted by Picasso around the same period as Downing.

Picasso - Buste de femme assise

And then Picasso himself is present with a very typical Bust of a Sitting Woman.

Declaration des droits

One of the pieces on the corridors that I thought to be worth being captured in a photo is the declaration of human rights of the French Revolution which together with the Declaration of Independence and the Constitution of the United States form until today the cornerstones of the democratic and human rights respecting countries and political regimes.

Michel Hertrich - Vues de Colmar 1874-1876

Then in the section of local artists and locally inspired works I found paintings made in the city 140 years ago during the German rule. As always it is interesting to notice the conservation of the core style and atmosphere of the city, and look for the differences and similitude.

Here are more images from the museum found on youTube:



(video source mccoy1975)

The Web site of the museum at http://www.musee-unterlinden.com/ includes a lot of interesting information.

espace Fernet-Branco

With a few hours left in the afternoon we decided to take the car and drive a few tens of kilometers to the city of Saint Louis (France, not Missouri). We had seen in Strasbourg in the window of a gallery a poster of an exhibition of the collection of Jean Planque at the Espace Fernet Branca. The title of the exhibition ‘From Degas to Picasso’ was promising.

Jean Planque was a minor artist but a major expert and art collector. Working as an advisor for rich collectors and galleries he earned and then gathered enough funds to allow him to form a collection that includes many works of important artists from impressionists until Picasso’s works in the 60s. Again, helas, photography was not allowed in the exhibition, but the Web page provides some information – http://www.museefernetbranca.fr/page000100c9.html

Découvrez La collection "Jean Planque" à l’Espace Fernet-Branca sur Culturebox !


video source culturebox.france3.fr

The video above gives some more information about the collection, the collector and the exhibition in Sain Louis.

We had ended our art day in Colmar and around. We had one last amusing experience in road orientation, when accidentally and before the GPS synchronized we lost our way and we entered … Switzerland, actually the city of Basel. Saint Louis could be considered a suburb of the much bigger Swiss city, it’s just that it’s located in France. The next day we will be back here and Basel will be our principal stop on the way to the French area of Switzerland.

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Carte: Nicolae Manolescu – Viata si carti

Ce poate face Nicolae Manolescu, unul dintre cei mai importanti critici si istorici literari ai ultimelor decenii, dupa ce a scris o ‘Istorie critica a literaturii romane’? Desigur, una dintre optiuni este sa-si scrie memoriile. Succesul de public este in definitiv ca si garantat, genul abordat de multi dintre scriitorii nostri in ultimii ani pare a fi in mare voga, iar Manolescu, detinatorul vreme de vreun sfert de secol a celei mai semnificative rubrici de cronica literara din Romania, voce critica de autoritate, om care a cunoscut majoritatea marilor personalitati ale vietii noastre literare si pe multe dintre cele ale vietii politice, intelectual care si-a incercat puterile si in politica dupa 1990 dupa ce se formase si reusise sa-si creze o personalitate si imagine independenta in anii dictaturii are multe de povestit si publicul cititor este interesat sa citeasca ceea ce are el de spus.

sursa http://www.librarie.net/

Viata si carti – Amintirile unui cititor de cursa lunga‘ este formata din doua parti de dimensiuni inegale si scrise in stiluri diferite. Ideea generala a cartii ar fi ca viata unui critic literar este traita si se manifesta prin carti, si se exprima cel mai bine prin trairile pe care le genereaza cartile. Ideea este cel mai bine pusa in pagina in prima parte a cartii intitulata ‘Cititul si scrisul‘ care descrie copilaria si anii de formare a scriitorului, familia acestuia si evolutia sa pana in anii de studentie si de debut in presa literara. Alternarea descrierii lecturilor copilului si adolescentului cu elemente din biografia familiei si ea impregnata de carti si lecturi are farmec si capteaza interesul. De exemplu, iata fragmentul in care este vazuta in perspectiva utopia proiectului comunist filtrata prin lecturile prin care pare a trece orice adolescent ale cartilor lui Jules Verne:

‘In definitiv, in timp ce imi aresta parintii si ma condamna la un handicap social (dosarul meu de cadre), comunismul avea pretentia de a ma forma in spiritul acelorasi valori ca si cele ale lui Jules Verne. Aici este miselia suprema. Si ea provoca destula confuzie in mintea mea. Comunismul imi arata simultan doua fete: una schimonosita de neincredere si de ura (ura de clasa), alta zambitoare. luminoasa, progresista. Cartile pe care mi le ingaduia (ale lui Jules Verne printre ele) nu se potriveau cu lumea in care comunismul ma silea sa traiesc.’ (pag. 53)

Copilul este fermecat si absorbit in lumea cartilor inainte de a sti bine sa citeasca. Cititul ii devine mod de viata si nevoia de a scrie despre carti apare mult mai tarziu. Eroii cartilor i se par mai importanti decat oameni, ei au perenitatea pe care fiintelor umane reale le este refuzata, ei vor exista dupa ce noi nu mai suntem. Cand pasiunea scrisului despre carti devine meserie, ea risca sa ucida placerea de a citi, astfel definind de altfel Manolescu insasi meseria criticului – cineva care citeste din nevoie pentru ca asta ii este meseria si nu din placere.

Destue din amintirile mele cu adevarat pretioase se leaga de carti. … Aceasta nu inseamna ca viata mea a fost o carte, dar ca, de ce sa n-o spun, cartile au fost viata mea’ (pag. 72)

In prima parte a volumului cartile sunt abandonate doar pentru a intra in detalii biografice despre familie sau chiar a include texte scrise de membrii familei sale cum ar fi de exemplu bunicul sau. Maturizarea emotionala a tanarului Nicolae Manolescu are loc in paralel si prin cunoasterea eroilor cartilor care il absorb. Primele sale indragostiri sunt pentru personaje de carti. In afara de anectodica povestire a pierderii unei ocazii de a impartasi o iubire cu o tanara care studia engleza pentru ca francofilul din el intelesese doar cuvintele dar nu si modul si sensul expresiei ‘I love you’ (las pe altii sa judece cat de plauzibil este episodul) vom afla de altfel foarte putin despre viata sentimentala a omului Manolescu pana la ultimele pagini ale cartii, unde un dens capitol dedicat femeilor din viata sa si camuflate de pudice initiale este asa de bine scris incat ne face sa regretam ca autorul nu a dedicat mai mult spatiu dezvaluirilor personale. Prima parte se incheie cu o frumoasa auto-caracterizare la care poate subscrie orice iubitor impatimat de carte:

Sunt un vicios al lecturii. Am nevoie sa citesc asa cum am nevoie sa mananc si sa beau. Hrana pe care mi-o ofera lectura imi este la fel de indispensabila ca si aceea materiala … Curiozitatea nu m-a parasit niciodata. O carte noua este lucrul cel mai frumos care mi se poate intampla. Sufletul mi-e vesel, oho, pentru ca n-am citit toate cartile’. (pag. 176-177)

sursa ro.wikipedia.org

Din pacate exact cartile sunt cele care sunt impinse la o parte in partea a doua, mai consistenta in volum si mai extinsa in timp (din anii 60 pana in zilele noaste) si care este simetrica cu prima carte doar in titlu – ‘Scrisul si cititul’. Critica literara devinese meserie, cititorul pasionat se transformase in cititor profesionist, autor de rubrica permanenta, redactor de ziare. Nu ne mai sunt descrise cartile ci personajele si intamplarile epocilor, intrigile si politicile lumii scriitorilor. O cu totul altfel de carte, un cu totul alt mod si stil de memorialistica.

Multe dintre capitolele cartii dedicate perioadei dictaturii mi s-au parut pasionante si marturisesc ca le-am citit ca pe un roman politist. Am trait in cea mai mare parte a acelei epoci in Romania, m-am format atunci ca cititor si ca intelectual, devoram cartile si presa literara, si de aceea revelatiile si informatiile din culise descrise de Manolescu mi-au deschis ochii si confirmat in mare parte multe dintre cele pe care in acea vreme doar le ghiceam printre randuri sau le intuiam din context mai degraba decat din texte. Descoperit de George Ivascu ‘cel mai de seama facator de reviste culturale din a doua jumatate a secolului XX‘ (pag. 184) Nicolae Manolescu este adus de acesta la Contemporanul si apoi la Romania Literara, unde devine titularul unei rubrici care avea sa-l pozitioneze ca pe criticul reprezentativ al generatiei sale si a perioadei. Este implicat in micile si marile drame culturale ale epocii, in perioada de dezghet din anii 60, in supravietuirea si rezistenta in mare parte pasiva a tagmei scriitoricesti la mini-revolutia culturala declansata de Ceausescu in anii 70, la luptele ideologice si atacurile impotriva breslei declansate de protocronisti si national-comunisti in anii 80.

Descrierea acestei perioade face imposibila evitarea confruntarii cu intrevarile legate de etica scriitoriceasca, de optiunile politice (Manolescu nu a fost membru PCR, nu a scris niciodata despre Ceausescu), de confruntarea cu cenzura si autocenzura, de necesitatea compromisului (criticul uraste termenul de ‘colaborare’). Raportul dintre cenzura si autocenzura este expediat intr-o spunere aforistica: ‘Cenzura mai lasa cate o pleoapa sa-i cada. Autocenzura era un reflex permanent. Ochiul ei nu atipea niciodata.‘ (pag. 210). Crezul sau este rezumat intr-unul dintre paragrafele care urmeaza, cand vorbeste despre compromisurile facute de generatii succesive de scriitori in timpul perioadei comuniste pentru a-si castiga dreptul la exprimare si publicare, fie si in limitele admise de regim: ‘Tinerilor scriitori de dupa 1989 li se va fi parand cinica observatia ca noi am avut de castigat de pe urma abdicarilor morale ale unor mari scriitori, abdicari care au permis reconsiderarea lor oficiala exact cand aveam mai multa nevoie de ea. Tinerii ar trebui sa inteleaga ca, daca noi, profesorii lor, am fi fost lipsiti de lectia critica a lui George Calinescu, ei insisi n-ar fi fost ceea ce sunt. Cultura e o stafeta.’ Optiunea este discutabila. Atitudinea aleasa nu a fost singura posibila, si incadrarea ei in cadrul ‘rezistentei prin cultura’ (alt termen de care Manolescu pare a se dezice) este indoielnica. In sectiunile in care o dezvolta – si sunt cateva – Manolescu suna auto-justificativ.

Mai exista o problema in stilul de memorialistica practicat de Manolescu. Multe dintre personajele despre care vorbeste sunt scriitori, ziaristi sau politicieni care au avut o faima limitata in timp si mai ales in opere. De exemplu mie imi mai spune ceva numele lui Ion Lacranjan, mentionat la un moment dat, dar oare cat stie tanara generatie de intelectuali formata dupa 1990 cine a fost si mai ales ce a scris el, si ce se va sti despre el peste 50 de ani? Cand scrie despre astfel de personaje Manolescu trece pare a trece limita nesigura intre memorialistica si jurnal ajungand la o economie de cuvinte si de punere in context mai degraba caracteristica jurnalului.

Repet, am gasit in aceasta parte a memoriilor multe fragmente interesante faptic, si observatii profunde, cum este cea legata de polarizarea intelectualilor romani intre universalisti si nationalisti inca din anii 80, premergand polarizarii politice din anii 90 dupa revenirea democratiei. Pe de alta parte nu poate fi remarcata si poate este inevitabila subiectivitatea unor portrete si cand este vorba despre scriitori pe care Manolescu ii antipatizeaza (Breban se ‘bucura’ de unul dintre cele mai aspre tratamente) sau care i-au fost buni prieteni (cazul lui Ivasiuc). Un incident care mie mi-a ramas neclar si dupa lectura este cel al publicarii si retragerii urmata de distrugerea antologiei de ‘Poezie romana moderna‘ din 1968, cea care incerca sa readuca la lumina tiparului poeti ca Radu Gyr sau Nechifor Crainic. ‘Sa nu uitam ca soarta antologiei fusese decisa de publicarea, intaia oara dupa 1944, si fara nicio reconsiderare ideologica, a unor poeti “fascisti”.’ (pag. 237). Sincer nu am inteles comentariul si ma intreb daca chiar si astazi publicarea unei astfel de antologii nu ar necesita o reconsiderare sau macar o punere in context ideologica a autorilor si textelor lor, si daca eticheta adaugata acestora nu este justificata, macar intre ghilimele. Curioase sunt si tratamentele relativ blande de care au parte in posteritatea cartii activisti de partid (comunist) de mare rang cum au fost Dumitru Popescu-Dumnezeu si Gogu Radulescu, in timp ce un politician post-decembrist dar si rival politic cum a fost Corneliu Coposu pare a fi judecat mai cu severitate.

Ultima parte a cartii m-a deceptionat. Poate ca nu se va intampla asta si cu alti cititori, pentru care perioada de dupa 1990 (pe care eu nu am trait-o in Romania) si tentativa nereusita a lui Nicolae Manolescu de a intra in politica prezinta mai mult interes. Din toata aceasta sectiune sau mai bine zis intre sectiunile despre cele doua parti ale lui 1989 mie mi-au placut relatarile intalnirilor si portretele pline de pasiune si de compasiune (pentru perioada finala a degradarii lor fizice si intelectuale) pe care autorul le dedica lui Virgil Ierunca si Monicai Lovinescu. Regretul meu principal este ca in toata aceasta a doua parte din ‘Viata si carti‘ lipsesc aproape cu desavarsire referirile la carti. Amintirile despre viata sunt cele care le iau locul, sau mai exact punctul de vedere al criticului despre viata pe care a trait-o. Despre cartile pe care le-a citit trebuie sa cautam sa aflam tot in cartile sale despre carti.



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Documentary – The Jewish Americans (PBS – 2008)

David Grubin‘s documentary about the history of the Jews in America made in 2008 for PBS was broadcast in Israel in six one-hour installments rather than the three series original format presented to the American public. It makes for a comprehensive and fascinating view, which is at the same time informative, as well as an opening for discussions, more by its subject rather then by the way the documentary is made. In any case it’s recommended viewing for anybody who is interested on the history of one of the most important Jewish communities that ever existed (at this moment in the history it is probably no longer the greatest Jewish community in the world as it was for the second half of the 20th century, but the second in size), for people interested in the history of the Jewish people and of the United States.

source www.amazon.com

And a fascinating history it is – a history that started 350 years ago when the first 23 Jews reached the shores of America fleeing the arm of the Inquisition that had extended its influence in the area of today’s Brazil. As they settled in the New Amsterdam (today’s Manhattan) their reception in the New World was not easy from the beginning, as Jews they had to fight all the difficulties of the life in the colonies that all other newcomers were fighting but also the prejudices towards Jews that the other colonists were bringing with them from their countries of origin. Yet, the New World offered a much better opportunity for personal and community development, a system of laws and a climate of freedom and tolerance that far from perfect was better than what Jews met in most of their tribulations as an exiled people. While the first episode focuses on the first two centuries of Jewish life in America, the next three successively present the successive waves of Jewish immigration from Europe, the contributions that the Jews brought to the American industry, culture, science while developing their own identity and fighting with the issues that confronted an old religion and traditional mode of life that had to adapt to a new and dynamic world. As the story enters the 20th century the issues of full equality and fight on antisemitism take the front row. Fascinating personalities like Louis Brandeis the first Jewish justice of the Supreme Court or composer Isaiah Berlin are presented in details. A great part of the last two episodes is dedicated to the reaction of the Jewish American community faced with horrors of the Holocaust and of its relation with the newly born state of Israel. All the story is told in a balanced manner, with emphasize on documents and filmed material. The supporting talking heads are not big personalities (as far as I know at least), but their commentaries fit the overall tone of the presentation of history.  

(video source bigredrodan)

The documentary value of the film is impressive. As an Israeli Jew I just realized how little I know about this big Jewish community and the PBS series filled in some of my knowledge gap. The presentation and the level of the commentary exceeded in breath and depth what usually can be seen on American channels like the History Channel or Biography. Yet, I would have expected a more crisp and daring approach on some of the current issues that are confronting the Jewish community in the US today. While the pluralism of Judaism in America is celebrated including the brand of ‘Jew by choice’ who comes to the synagogue by choice and following an internal need for identity and fulfillment , no time is spent with the consequences and dangers that come together with the liberalization of the Jewish faith such as assimilation by marriage and lost of the Jewish identity in the coming generation, principal cause for the constant decrease of the number of Jews in America in the last decades. There is no discussion either about the Pollard case, or about the rift caused in the Jewish American organizations by the different attitudes towards policies of Israel in the territories occupied after the 1967 Israeli-Arab war. Maybe these events are too recent, and maybe they are thought to belong to another kind of film that would deal with the problems and crisis of the Jewish Americans in the present – but in their absence the final impression after viewing the last episode is a little bit too festive and didactic.

The TV show has a Web site which contains a lot of interesting information, documentary material, as well as video fragments from the different episodes  http://www.pbs.org/jewishamericans/

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An European Vacation / 20 – On the streets (and in the restaurants) of Colmar

Colmar is one of the more beautiful and interesting places in Alsace. It’s not big in size, but the location on the Route des Vins, the beautiful buildings, and the splendid art it hosts make of it a place to spend some time in for any tourist in the area. This is exactly what we did, with one full day dedicated to the city.

Maison des Tetes

As we went out for dinner at the end of quite an exhausting day on the Route des Vins which I described in the previous episode I had two principal objectives. A good dinner (as we had practically skipped lunch eating a sandwich in a cafeteria at the Mount Odile convent) and a good bottle of Alsace wine after a dry day on the road of the wine. A friend from the Internet lists had recommended us the Maison des Tetes and we were happy to discover that the hotel and restaurant that is hosted is also one of the famous buildings of the city, built in 1609 and beautifully ornate with carved heads on its facade.

une tete a la Maison des Tetes

I will be bluntly honest, after looking at the menu at the Maison des Tetes we were intimidated by the prices and by the relative small number of choices that I understood what they were about, so we decided to skip this restaurant and look for something else.

restaurant Bartholdi

The place we chose was the Bartholdi which is named after the sculptor of the Statue of Liberty who was born in the city. The decision proved to be perfect, with a good selection balancing local food and French cuisine, and a magnificent choice of wines.

lamb chops a l'Alsace

I went for the escargots which I must have at least once while in France and for lamb chops a l’Alsace because I was too hungry to risk not having what promised to be a consistent meat choice. The portion proved not to be too big, but tasty beyond expected (and expectation were high).

Gewurztraminer of Faller

Did I mention that our waiter seemed to be around 80? She however was moving with a speed and precision that could be envied by many of her colleagues in their 20s. Her recommendation for a good Gewurtztraminer (Liliana’s preferred white wine) was excellent.

Colmar at night

The good wine created the premises of a nice walk in a city which is even more beautiful at night than in daylight. Although located a few tens of kilometers south of Strasbourg, Colmar has a definite Nordic appearance in the style of the streets and of the houses, reminding me strongly Maastricht which I had visited a couple of months ago.

eglise des Dominicains at night

On our way we passed l’eglise des Dominicains whose building started in the 13th century and continued and was completed in the 14th and the 15th century.

Eglise des Dominicains

This is where we started our track the following day. We saw a lot of art during that day, and the next episode will be dedicated to it. The imposing church lets itself be nicely photographed both at night as during the day.

Petite Venise

By the end of the Colmar day we were of course hungry again and we chose to walk to another district of Colmar called Petite Venise (Little Venice) because of the canals that cross it. To me the association with the Pays-Bas rather than Venice was the one that came to my mind.

Le Petit Gourmand

The restaurant that we chose for dinner that evening was Le Petit Gourmand which has a beautiful wooden terrace just by the canal.  The choice was excellent again, and we indulged in the Alsatian specialties for our last night in Alsace, by having le baeckaoffae alsacien au 3 viandes marinees – so I did have baeckaoffae in Alsace after all.

Muscat of Antoine Erhart

I remember the wine because it was an excellent dry muscat, which may sound strange to some of my Romanian or Israeli friends who are used with the sweet variants of this kind of wine. It needs not be sweet, and it’s great.

swans at night

On our way back we enjoyed a last sight of the beautiful area in this so pleasant town, and photographed swans that were also enjoying the evening on the canals.

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Ein Hod before and after the blaze

surce http://www.haaretz.com/

At the very moment I am writing these lines we are in the third day of the biggest ecological catastrophe in the history of modern Israel – a huge wildfire that is blazing through the north of the country, destroying property, wildlife and vegetation in one of the most beautiful natural areas in Israel.

the Janco-Dada Museum

Last night the fire reached the artists village of Ein Hod which was evacuated already a day ago of its inhabitants, as it was feared that the blaze will reach here. Unfortunately the fears were confirmed, and right now the firefighters are engaged in action in the village trying to stop the fire and save whatever is possible.

inside the Janco-Dada Museum

The artists village in Ein Hod is a unique place. It was created in 1953 by the Romanian Jewish painter Marcel Iancu (Janco) – co-founder of the Dadaism, one of the most famous avant-garde painters and well-known architects in Romania before World War II. After visiting the mandatory Palestine in 1938 and witnessing the rise to power of the fascist movement in Romania in 1940 with the pogroms and anti-Semitic laws that followed, Marcel Iancu left Romania and started a new life in Palestine, where the Jewish community was fighting for the creation of the Jewish homeland. He became one of the best known painters in the young old country, founded one of the principal currents of painting in Israeli art, and established the community of artists at Ein Hod in the village south of Haifa.

the main gallery

Ein Hod is a unique place and I’ve been there many times. A special museum is dedicated to the personality of Marcel Iancu, and also hosts important artistic exhibitions. Art galleries are permanently open, and each house is in itself a gallery, workplace, and collection for artists who came here to settle, live and create. I cannot imagine this place destroyed. I can only hope that as much as possible will be saved, and all that was destroyed will be built back and extended with a vengeance. Such a place of beauty and art should not disappear. It will not disappear.

Dona Rosa restaurant

About Ein Hod – the unique artists village in Israel – as it was and as it will be you can read at http://jancodada-museum.israel.net/

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One Day, Two Celebrations

source us.ebid.net

Coincidentele calendarelor fac ca astazi sa avem o sarbatoare dubla – Ziua Nationala a Romaniei si prima lumanare a sarbatorii de Hanuca. In moduri diferite cele doua sarbatori simbolizeaza dorinta de libertate a celor doua popoare – roman si evreu – si marcheaza speranta in biruinta luptei lor pentru libertate si intregire fizica si spirituala.

(video source tunaru)

The hazards of the calendars makes of this year’s December 1st a double day of celebration for me. It’s both the National Day of Romania marking the complete reunification of all Romanians in one country on December 1st 1918, and also it’s the first night of Hanukkah, when Jews light the first of the eight candles celebrating light and freedom. In different ways the two holidays symbolize the thirst for freedom of the two peoples, and the hope towards physical and spiritual unity.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pxwAatmxI4g

(video source beeleepro)

La Multi Ani, Romania!

Hag Hanuca Sameah!

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An European Vacation / 19 – Route des Vins

This episode is less about the wonderful Alsatian wines than one would expect. I surely would have liked to write more and especially to taste more wine during the driving tour we made in the 7th day of our vacation from Strasbourg to Colmar, but I was the designated driver and I am imposing on myself zero alcohol tolerance when driving. I’ll talk more about wine in the next episode when I will talk about the dinners in Colmar. The itinerary that we took that day avoided the highway and took the picturesque route among the vineyards, flanked at West by the Vosges mountains, from Marlenheim in the North to Tann in the South. We drove about two thirds of the route.

a market day in Obernai

Our point of entrance in the Route des Vins was in the small town of Obernai. We were lucky to find parking place not far from the central Place de Marche, as it was a market day. The market square is dominated by the 60 meter high 16th century Gothic tower.

inside the Saint Pierre and Saint Paul church in Obernai

We entered to visit the beautiful neo-Gothic church of Saint Pierre and Saint Paul. Although built in the 19th century the altar dates back from the 15th century.

crucifixion stained glass window in the church in Obernai

Beautiful stained glass windows filter the light in the church. Here is one of them representing the crucifixion under a rosary that reminds in shape the Star of David.

Mother Mary statue in the church in Obernai

The statuary works in the church are also remarkable. Here is a fine painted statue of Mother Mary.

the convent at Mont Sainte Odile

Part of the road was blocked by roadworks, so the detour almost forcibly took us towards the picks of the Vosges to Mont (Mount) Sainte Odile. Odile is kind of a patron saint of Alsace, a blind-born princess daughter of duke Etichon who is said to have regained eye-sight when baptized in the year 700. The convent built on the place where the castle of the duke once laid is a place of pilgrimage for the believers from all over Alsace. The current building and church dates from the end of the 17th century, but it is the beautiful chapels around the main building that give the unique character and beauty to this place.

view from Mont Sainte Odile

The location of the convent is magnificent, at 763 meters it allows a splendid view towards the Rhine valley, Strasbourg, Obernai and the smaller towns and villages around.

Chapelles des Larmes at Mont Sainte Odile

Chapelles des Larmes is located on the site of the ancient cemetery from the Merovingian period and is ornate with golden mosaic dating from the 12th century reminding the Byzantine style.

Chapelles des Anges at Mont Sainte Odille

Chapelles des Anges has similarly beautiful mosaics composition inside, but the dominant tones are darker blue and red, in a palet that reminds the monasteries of Sucevitza and Moldovitza in Bucovina, Northern Romania.

cave vinicole

Back to the road we passed near numerous wineries and restaurants offering the liquors of the area. Some of the famous names producing the Riesling, Gewurztraminer and other sorts that make Alsace one of the most popular regions producing wine in France.

winery on the Route des Vins

Helas, I was the designated driver!

entrance at Haut Koenigsbourg

The spectacular castle at Haut Koenigsbourg was our next stop.

view from Haut Koenigsbourg

Also located at more than 700 meters and offering another splendid view to the valley, the first mention of the castle is from the 12th century, but under its current form the castle was built in the 15th century by the Habsburgs to be sieged and destroyed in the 17th century, during the 30 years war.

ceiling in the main dinner room

We enjoyed a tour guided visit at haut Koenigsbourg, and much of it was dedicated to the impressive renovation work performed here between 1900 and 1908, during the German rule of the region. The works directed by builder Bodo Ebhardt were a beautiful example of German engineering. The interior decoration try to reinforce the link between the castle, the Habsburgs and the Hohenzollern family of the Geman kaiser Wilhelm I for whom the castle was built by the city of Selestat who owned it.

room in Haut Koenigsbourg

I could not stop myself to compare the building with the Peles castle in Romania built at Sinaia in the Carpathian mountains during the same period when Haut Koenigsbourg was renovated for the first king of Romania, Carol I who was also of German origin (actually family related with Wilhelm). While the setting of the Alsatian castle is much more impressing, the internal decoration of the Romanian palace exceeds by far in beauty and refinement the one in France. To complete the history, after the first world war the castle as the whole area returned to French control and in 1937 Jean Renoir filmed here La Grande Illusion.

Riquewihr

The last stop on the Route des Vins was in the little town of Riquewihr, for many years the property of the dukes of Wurtenberg, and a three stars objective in the Michelin guide. Unfortunately we got there too late to be able to visit the castle, and we could just see that the picturesque streets full of boutiques, wineries and restaurants would have been a place to spend a few pleasant hours.

vineyards near Riquewihr

We gave up, took some more photos of the vineyards around and decided to head to Colmar. The Mercure on Champs de Mars in Colmar was our comfortable and well located residence for the following two nights. How we spent our time in the city and around will be the subject of the next episodes.

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An European Vacation / 18 – Eating in and around Strasbourg

Alsace is a special place from a culinary perspective. Some say that French and German influences combine to create une cuisine which at best is refined as the French know to make it and solid as the German like it. Other disregard it and consider it to be rough and neither French not German. Liliana and me love it.

auberge-restaurant S'bastberger-stuewel

Out first encounter with the Alsacian cuisine in this trip was in fifth day of the trip, when lunch time caught us hungry on the road. We could not resist the view of an auberge nicely decorated with flowers and sculptures in the picturesque village of Imbsheim which is kind of a suburb of Bouxviller where we were heading to, and stopped there for lunch.

the bar at restaurant S'bastberger-stuewel

It proved to be one of the most beautiful restaurants we have ever seen. It’s a family place on the road combining a restaurant and a small hotel, and it must be pretty famous in the area as the owners were taking reservations by phone during all our lunch there.

witches on the walls at Restaurant S'bastberger-stuewel

The decoration inside included flowers, and rustic paintings and comic posters in German or Alsatian dialect and witches puppets which reminded us immediately about one of our preferred restaurants in Israel – the Witches Casserole and The Milkman near the Nimrod fortress on the Golan Heights.

menu fix au Restaurant S'bastberger-stuewel

What about the food? Well, we were quite late for lunch so the owners suggested that we have the fix menu. Three course, soup, chicken with potatoes prepared in a rustic style and a tasty cream to end – pretty simple but inexpensive and tasty. The full menu included many local specialties that we would have loved to try, but these had to be left for another occasion.

Strasbourg - La corde a linge

We were not very hungry that evening, but we could not avoid a good beer and a bite on a terrace in the Petite France area of Strasbourg. We chose La corde a linge by the river Ill.

music by the Ill

Although the pick tourist season was over the place was quite crowded because of the location, the perfect weather and the music band which was playing on the pedestrian street in front of the restaurant for the customers of the restaurants around.

spaetzle keltch and salade Corset

The bite ended by not being that small, as the restaurant has generously sized portions. We especially enjoyed the spaetzle keltch which is kind of a consistent and tasty pudding of German egg noodles with cheese and ham. Diets start the day after the vacation – did you know that?

gateaux chez Christian

The next day was the full day that we spent in Strasbourg. We had one very specific recommendation from our friend Erica for Christianpatisserie and chocolatier near the cathedral. We found it late in the afternoon after we had already eaten a fast street food lunch so we just tried the cakes and acknowledged that the recommendation was completely in place.

Maison des Tanneurs

We could not leave Strasbourg before having the best of the local specialty – la choucroute. The place that we chose – also located in the Petite France area – was La Maison des Tanneurs. The building is one of the oldest typical and beautiful buildings in place in the area, built in 1572, and renovated in 1972 for the four centuries anniversary. It was a tannery for most of its history and became a restaurant in 1949.

Maison des Tanneurs - interior

After enjoying the stylish interior we met our waiter who had a look and accent that were not at all local, but rather Mediterranean. Soon we learned that he is a Turkish Kurd, and we became friends after he identified the language we were speaking as Romanian and we found the common subject of discussion between almost any Romanian and any Turk – Gheorghe Hagi.

choucroute - the real thing

The specialty we came there for was at the level of the expectations.

choucroute au poissons

We tried also a variant of choucroute with fish – it proved to be very different than what we expected. Good but different.

yes, we are in Alsace!

The wine we chose was a Riesling Grand Cru from Domaine Klipfel. We such started the preparations for the Route des Vins which we were planning to travel the next day.

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Book: Philip Roth – The Humbling

The previous book of Philip Roth that I read was The Plot Against America which a historical ‘what-if’ type of story describing an alternative path that the American history could have taken in the period at the start of the second world war, and speculating about the possible fate of his own self and family in that hypothetical loop of history. It’s also the last solid and long breath novel that Roth has written to date. What followed were a cycle of four novels (until now), much shorter in length, closer to novellas in size, and more personal in subjects. The Humbling is the third novel in this latest cycle, and the 30th of the author.

source www.guardian.co.uk

The hero of The Humbling is Simon Axler, an aging theater actor of some fame who one day loses his artistic gift.

… he had lost his magic as an actor for no good reason and it was just as arbitrarily that the desire to end his life began to ebb, at least for the time being. “Nothing has a good reason for happening” he said to the doctor later that day. (pag. 16-17)

After a short treatment for his suicidal tendencies he retires in a remote mountain chalet which somehow reminds the setting of Stephen King’s horror stories, incapable of finding too much sense for the rest of his life, with suicide still lurking around permanently

Every morning when he awoke to his emptiness, he determined that he couldn’t go another day shorn of his skills, alone, workless, and in persistent pain. (pag. 45-46)

The salvation comes, how else, under the form of a woman. It’s not a simple relation, but it’s fascinating. Pegeen is 25 years younger than him, is the daughter of fellow artists that he had seen as a baby, and is just out of a long lesbian relationship. There is everything to be feared in this companionship – age, sexual orientation, persons from the past (as one of the former relations of Pegeen named Louise), Pegeen’s parents who disapprove the connection, and among all the fear of failing, the terror of going back and being completely finished. The terror of becoming the next Louise (pag. 95)

source nymag.com

I will not tell more in order to leave to other readers the pleasure of discovering where lead the accumulated signs of warning around the relation of the two characters. Despite the relatively reduced number of pages Roth succeeds to build a convincing pair of characters which fight the incertitude of their identities, the doubts concerning their power of creation and power of living. The solution of seeing the salvation in each other at a moment of crossroads in the life of both seems for a moment convincing. The outcome is one of the possible outcomes of such situations.

(video source TheDailyBeastVideo)

Some may consider this minor literature in the bibliography of a writer who is one of the few who have defined in his books in an authoritative manner what is America nowadays and what are the principal dilemmas of its inhabitants. The personal universe and the social universe combine in the best books of Philip Roth. As many of his heroes try to build their own world and live into it, the world outside intervenes and prevails. In this short novel the outer world is represented by the intervention of Pegeen in Simon’s life, and the question that the hero is asking himself from the start, and that we as readers are also lead to ask is whether this intervention is blessing or curse. To answer it you will need to read the book, which despite its rather depressing mood is a beautiful reflection on love, art, sex, aging and loneliness, concentrated and well written as you would expect from a book signed Philip Roth. The pleasure of reading another book of his was all here.

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The Cape Town Opera with ‘Porgy and Bess’ in Tel Aviv

Gershwin’s (or The Gershwins’ as the performance program says) Porgy and Bess performances in Israel were not spared of some non-musical controversy, as a few weeks before the show there was big pressure on the Cape Town Opera to cancel the tour (apparently planned for four years) in Tel Aviv.  Luckily the South-African institution decided not to boycott the Israeli audiences and there I was last night enjoying a very different first performance as a subscriber of the New Israeli Opera new season.

(video source ntobekoleo)

The history of Porgy and Bess is not deprived of controversy at all, and this more recent would be just one added and probably not the last one. Composed by George Gershwin in 1933-34 on a libretto by DuBose Heyward and based on his novel, the opera is written for an almost all black singers team, and the lyrics are written by Ira Gershwin in an Afro-American dialect. Although the structure and the lyric material represent a very solid and self-contained operatic material the opera was premiered on Broadway and did not reach the Metropolitan Opera where the Gershwins dreamed to be mounted but after their death and 50 years after the premiere. While a popular film by Otto Preminger staring Sidney Poitier (doubled by a singer voice) made the opera famous world-wide, and the opening area ‘Summertime’ made it back to the first page of the big American songbook and famous jazz standards, part of the Afro-American community did not accept easily the opera as a cultural accolade but pointed to the racial stereotypes that accumulate in the story and its characters. I found a detailed and well-written description of the racial controversy around Porgy and Bess at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Porgy_and_Bess#Racial_controversy. Having the performance staged at a major opera house in the country that walked the difficult road from a racist state to freedom and reconciliation is symbolic.

(video source Praguedive)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mzNEgcqWDG4

(video source korkhmmaregon)

The vision brought to stage by the Opera from Cape Town and the director Christine Crouse transplants the conflict from the South Carolina fisher’s village to the Soweto suburbs during the peak of the apartheid rule, using the sets and costumes designed by Michael Mitchell. It is the first time that I am hearing the opera sung in a full performance, so I had quite a strange feeling in some moments, as the more famous tunes sounded different than in their jazz or pop music variants. Yet it was a convincing version with the gospel vibrations coming up much stronger than some of the Jewish roots of a few tunes and motives in the score – but this was expected. The team of singers were good and authentic in their African rendition of the story, with baritone Xolela Sixaba impressing with his musical but also acting talent as Porgy, and with sopranos Philisa Sibeko (Clara) and Tina Meme (Serene) showing great vocal skills, better last night in my opinion than those of Sibongile Mngoma who was trusted with being Bess. The Opera Orchestra (which is also the Israel Symphony Orchestra from Rishon LeZion) directed by David Stern was uninspired and too loud but this seems to be an almost chronic problem of its performances.

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