‘Picasso in Paris’ at the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam

May 1st was a beautiful day in Amsterdam this year. I had a few free hours at the beginning of a short but busy business trip and as in many cases I looked for opportunities to visit art museums and galleries. With the city waking up after the Dutch national day which is celebrated each year on April 30 with a big party in the streets, and with the Rijksmuseum in eternal renovation the best choice seemed to be the ‘Picasso in Paris’ show at the  Van Gogh Museum.

(video source atVanGoghMuseum)

The exhibition is realized in collaboration with the Picasso Museum in Barcelona and marks with paintings, photographs and documents the first seven years spent by Picasso in Paris, since his first arrival here in 1900 until 1907. His first stay in Paris lasted only a few months, he was 19 and spoke no word of French. He spent most of his time in museums absorbing the art of the masters as well as of the Impressionist and contemporary artists. A short stay in Barcelona was followed by the return to Paris and the suicide of his good friend Carles Casagemas in 1901. This was the start of the darker mood ‘Blue’ period. It was also a time of social integration, with Picasso befriending Max Jacob, becoming a regular of the cabarets in Montmartre, and settling his studio in the dilapidated building of Bateau Lavoir.

source http://www.vangoghmuseum.nl/vgm/

With the change in mood came also the diversification of style and themes. The Montmartre typology and clowns entered his universe, to remain here for the next seventy years of his artistic career.

source online.wsj.com

By 1907 the first big step of his artistic evolution was completed. In the last works in the exhibition we can see Picasso starting to experiment with the decomposition of forms and the geometrical patterns that will become the building blocks of the cubist revolution. In an ideal world of arts this exhibition should have ended with the painting that symbolizes the birth of modern art – Les Demoiselles d’Avignon. Unfortunately the Van Gogh Museum could not get it from MoMA, but we can imagine it in a virtual last room in our imagination.

I then spent another couple of hours in the museum, visiting together with one of my American colleagues the Van Gogh collection. The museum underwent a serious renovation since I first visited it around 1994, and although the structure of the Van Gogh collection is basically the same (his decade of creation divided in periods according to the place and years, works of art that surrounded him in his time), the exhibition space and visiting conditions are much more better than the ones I remembered. The museum which was surprisingly crowded for an out-of-season afternoon is a mandatory visit for any Van Gogh fan. Out in the still sunny daylight I photographed some trees with Van Gogh yellow colored flowers.

source http://www.chagall.nl/

On the way back to the hotel we walked Spiegelgracht which seems to be a street of art galleries and old books shops. Our attention was drawn by the Wuyt Gallery at number 32 of the street, which gathers and sells certified graphic art by Mark Chagall.

source http://www.chagall.nl/

Especially beautiful are the lithographic designs of the windows representing the 12 tribes of Israel that can be found in the Synagogue at the Hadassah Medical Center in Jerusalem. Watch some of the series in the Web site of the gallery at http://www.chagall.nl/.

source http://www.jhm.nl/current/exhibitions/romania

One last exhibition I will mention will open however only in a few weeks. The name of the exhibition is  From Dada to Surrealism: Jewish Avant-Garde Artists from Romania, 1910-1938 and is hosted by the Jewish Historical Museum (which is located close to the hotel I have stayed at in Amsterdam). The exhibition will do hopefully a long waited reparation reminding that Romania was one of the important centers of the artistic avant-garde in the period between the two world wars, and that many of its most renowned artists (Tzara, Janco, Brauner, Maxy) were Jewish, and that they were fighting not only to promote their art but also to express their identities in the complex and in many instances hostile environment of the period. The exhibition will also open in December at the Israel Museum in Jerusalem, until them some details can be found at  http://www.jhm.nl/current/exhibitions/romania.


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Brecht’s ‘Caucasian Chalk Circle’ at the Cameri Theatre

Brecht would have liked the way the Cameri Theater in Tel Aviv approached his ‘Caucasian Circle’, despite the fact that it departs in many moments from the text he has written. He was himself more interested by the political engagement and with the contemporary messages of his plays than by texts (or better said pretexts) that built the performances. As playwright and director he let to the actors a wide space of freedom in expression, and combined the stage movement with songs in a manner that never tired or fell into desuetude in the many decades since his plays were written.  The text of the ‘Circle’ draws its inspiration from two sources – a 14th century Chinese play by Li Xingdao and the Biblical story of Solomon’s trial.

source http://cameri.co.il/index.php?page_id=2030

Director Udi Ben Moshe’s adaptation in Tel Aviv changes the wrapper of the story. There is almost no mention of the post World War II kolhoze story created by Brecht. In Tel Aviv it is replaced naturally by the conflict between two people who claim the same piece of land as their own. The theater in which the theater performance is played is replaced by our own universe, despite the denials of the character and raisonneur judge Azdak (whose name has also Hebrew intonation as ZDK is the radical for the word justice). There is however more in the young director’s version that enhances his adherence to the free theater principles. Usually amateur versions of the well-known plays are being taken over in schools, here he takes on the stage of the (arguably) best theater in Israel a version he has put on stage a few years ago for a high school performance of the play. The usage of chalk on blackboard as set designs is simple and expressive and so well fits into the context and the name of the play that it seems like the most natural thing in the world (stage design – Frieda Klapholz-Avrahami).

source http://cameri.co.il/index.php?page_id=2030

The performance in Tel Aviv is over all catchy and entertaining, trying to keep an appearance of improvisation, with two parts that look quite different in style and content. While the first part sets the context and plays more on the situations and characters comedy, the second one includes most of the political messages and relies on a great extent upon the personality of Shlomo Bar-Aba, who dominates the scene in one of these great performances that are to be remembered over years. All the other actors belong to the young generation and some of their replicas are up to the maestro’s show of power. Neta Garti is energetic and emotional in Grusha (one of these powerful Brechtian women who save the Universe with their deeds), while Andrea Schwartz gets the maximum from the Governor’s widow role, mastering the negative part in the comical register while playing as a supporting team member in scenes that require supporting acting. Udi Rothschild is an ingenuous Simon, and also fills-in a number of supporting parts. As in many of the performances written by Brecht music plays an important role, and there is a wide choice of existing scores, as well as the option of creating a new one. The Tel Aviv theater went for an original version, with the music composed by Keren Peles, who became in the last few years the house composer of the Cameri, leaving her print on a number of performances to be remembered for the music (supplementary to other aspects) and the version of the ‘Circle’ can be added to the series.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EJfoesN18jU

(video source aftaabtheatre)

Unfortunately I could not find any sequence from the performance in Tel Aviv. What I did find was another very interesting filmed excerpts from a performance put on stage in Afghanistan. The Aftaab Theatre was founded by Ariane Mnouchkine of Theatre Du Soleil in July 2005. Among other the opening scene in the clip seems to use traditional Jewish music. It’s a symbol of the fact that true theater as any true art transcends borders, may they be geographical and spiritual borders, and that the text written by Brecht at the end of the biggest conflict in history is so fit for other conflicts that still divide people world-wide. I am just left wondering what was the story that envelops the story that was presented to the Afghan audiences.

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The Ruins of Detroit

One of the places where I hope to get in June, when Liliana and me will celebrate our 30th wedding anniversary in Paris is a an exhibition open at from April 28th (date of the vernissage) to September 15th at Galerie Wanted, 23 rue du Roi de Sicile.

source http://www.marchandmeffre.com/index.html

You can get some information about the gallery at http://www.wantedparis.com/. Located in a former factory in the heart of Paris, it offers a generous space to exhibit photographic art and has an amazing Internet presence, also used as a channel to sell the exhibited works.

source http://www.marchandmeffre.com/index.html

Yves Marchand and Romain Meffre are the two artists that expose at ‘Wanted’ the exibition dedicated to ‘The Ruins of Detroit’. Born in the suburbs of Paris in 1981 and 1987 respectively, the two artists love to photograph the contemporary ruins of our civilization – from the abandoned cinema theaters in Hollywood to the industrial palaces of the big industries of yesterday. You can learn more about them and especially watch more of their art at http://www.marchandmeffre.com/.

source http://www.amazon.com/RUINS-DETROIT-Yves-Marchand/dp/3869300426/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1304144274&sr=8-1

The subject of the current exhibition is the city of Detroit – the imploding former capital of the auto industry of the United States. This is the world caught on screen by Clint Eastwood in his movie ‘Grand Torino’. According to TIME magazine the city lost in the first decade of the 21st century 25% of its population, reaching a full century low figure. Downtown skyscrapers and fastidious theaters in ruins, suburbs reclaimed by a wild vegetation are snap-shoot by the two French artists in troubling images speaking about the timely essence and the ephemeral nature of any civilization. A troubling beauty emanates from the photos.  For those who cannot get to the exhibition and are not satisfied with the Web photos, an album is available on Amazon at http://www.amazon.com/RUINS-DETROIT-Yves-Marchand/dp/3869300426/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1304144274&sr=8-1.

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Vladimir Weintraub – Excursie la Teotihuacan

‘The Catcher in the Sand’ imi prilejuieste in ultima vreme postarea unor descrieri referitoare la locuri unde nu am reusit inca sa ajung. Prietenii mei mai norocosi au fost insa acolo si au avut bunavointa de a-mi permite sa postez impresiile lor si fotografii pentru cititorii blogului. Iata relatari adunate de la Vlad Weintraub care in martie a facut o frumoasa excursie in Mexic.

Prima “escala” am facut-o la basilica Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe – in fond doua catedrale: cea veche, care e inclinata vizibil datorita lasarii solului (inauntru poti “aluneca la vale” fara sa vrei, si cea moderna, construita alaturi – avand statuia papei Ioan Paul II langa intrare.
The enormous basilica of Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe in Mexico City is the most visited pilgrimage site in the Western Hemisphere. Its location, on the hill of Tepeyac, was a place of great sanctity long before the arrival of Christianity in the New World. In pre-Hispanic times, Tepeyac had been crowned with a temple dedicated to an Earth and fertility goddess called Tonantzin, the Mother of the Gods. Tonantzin, like the Christian Guadalupe who usurped her shrine, was a virgin goddess, also associated with the moon. The Tepeyac hill and shrine had been an important pilgrimage place for the nearby Aztec capital city of Tenochtitlan. Following the conquest of Tenochtitlan by Hernan Cortez in 1521, the shrine was demolished, and the native people were forbidden to make pilgrimages to the sacred hill. Such practices were considered by the Christians to be devil worship. This policy of labeling pagan religious practices as demonic already had a more than thousand year history in Christian Europe.

In drum spre piramide, ne-am oprit apoi la un Atelier de artizanat tipic mexican: aici se prelucreaza piatra (vezi frumoasele produse, insa mari si grele), se prelucreaza agave (din care se face hartie, funii si chiar vestita bautura mexicana Pulche, care se poate gasi in orase la carciumi numite Pulcheria. Pulche e suc de agave usor fermentat), se fac/vand costume nationale, se “degusta” (si se vand) bauturile traditionale – pulche, tequila, coniac mexican etc.

Tot aici sunt si doi caini “nationali”, o rasa pe care n-am mai vazut-o.

In fine, ajungem la Teotihuacan.

Piramidele din piatra de la Teotihuacan, punct de atractie turistica aflata la o ora de mers cu masina de Mexico City, au fost descoperite de azteci cu mult timp in urma, de aceea ele nu sunt in fond piramide aztece si mai curand maiase.

Pana in prezent au fost aflate putine detalii despre civilizatia care a construit imensul oras, cu o arhitectura ceremoniala si temple geometrice, loc incendiat si abandonat in anul 700 i.Ch.

Orasul se intindea pe 30 kilometri patrati, avea in jur de 2000 de constructii si era locuit de aproximativ 200 000 de oameni.

Potrivit arheologilor, Teotihuacan este unul dintre cele mai vechi complexuri arheologice, in perioada sa de maxima prosperitate rivalizand ca marime cu Roma antica.

Recent, arheologii au redeschis un sistem de pesteri, care se afla la o adancime de sase metri sub pamant, sub Piramida Soarelui – considerata ca cea mai mare – si care se continua cu un tunel lung de 90 de metri si o inaltime de doi metri.

Pestera a fost inchisa timp de 30 de ani, iar cercetarile care se fac ar putea oferi indicii despre ritualurile sacre ale oamenilor din orasul care ulterior a fost numit Locul in care barbatii devin zei, despre care aztecii credeau ca este divin, fiind poreclit Orasul zeilor.

Pe langa Piramida Soarelui, mai importante sunt Piramida lunii si Piramida zeului Quetzaloatl ( denumire azteca a sarpelui cu pene). Teotihuacan este cel mai vizitat loc din Mexic. Toate apar in link-ul meu.

Pentru detalii, vezi si:  http://www.ultramarine.ro/romana/mexic/Teotihuacan/default.htm

Un detaliu interesant: langa Piramida zeului Quetzaloatl statea un mexican care vindea niste vederi (le-am cumparat). In mana avea niste buruieni, aproape uscate. Ghidul ne-a spus ca din ele se scoteau vopselele aztecilor. Cu una din buruieni, mexicanul ne-a desenat plicul vederilor un soare de un mov intens, iar cu cealalta a facut niste raze de un galben la fel de intens.

Excursia am incheiat-o la restaurantul Jaguar, in compania unor Mariachi (se citeste mariaci) – orchestra tipica a mexicanilor.

Va mai urma.

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Film: Giant (Elizabeth Taylor – 1956)

The Romanian culture portal filme-carti.ro dedicates an homage week series to Elizabeth Taylor. I contributed with an article about one of the first important films of Taylor – ‘Giant’. The Romanian version of this chronicle can be read at http://filme-carti.ro/filme/giant-1956-saptamana-elizabeth-taylor-9180/.

Made in the mid 50s ‘Giant’ is a historical and social drama that covers a few decades and two generations in the life of a wealthy Texan family  in the first half of the previous century, in a period of social and economic transformation of Texas and the United States. The genre was not really new, it was quite popular in the 30s and had reached its artistic and popularity pick with  ‘Gone with the Wind’. In a way the theme anticipated the TV series  ‘Dallas’ which would become a hit lately and deals with the same social media, starting about where ‘Giant’ ends.  More than three hours of screening time did not seem to intimidate neither the producers nor the viewers of the time, the film became for about two decades the biggest blockbuster of the Warner studios, being displaced only in the 70s by the powers of ‘Superman’. The cast includes a Rock Hudson in best shape and maturity, an Elizabeth Taylor strikingly beautiful but with an artistic sensitivity fully exposed for the first time, and a James Dean at his third and last leading rile, the fatal accident cutting of his career and life before the film premiered. The director is George Stevens, and interesting and almost forgotten personalty, who was in 1945 one of the first people to have filmed the horrors of the concentration and extermination camp of the Holocaust in Europe, then brought to screen in 1959 ‘The Diary of Anne Frank’ finishing his career in 1970 with a film that brought together Elizabeth Taylor and Warren Beatty in ‘The Only Game in Town’.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w2x6AT4mr3o

(video source IAmOnlyLove)

The story starts with the falling in love of the Texan Jordan Benedict (Rock Hudson) with the rich Yankee ranch-owner daughter Leslie (Elizabeth Taylor) and the leaving of the couple for Texas where Benedict is a huge ranch owner. One of the workers at the Benedict ranch is Jett Rink (James Dean) who inherits a small piece of land from Jordan’s sister, which he refuses to sell to his rich neighbor and former employer. When oil strikes just on that small piece of land Jett becomes rich overnight, the wealth and social status relation swapping, as Jett is faster in adapting to the new economy based on oil rather than on growing cattle. The story develops with the birth, growth and coming of age of a new generation, following the personal but also the social conflicts related to the transition in economy but also in way of life. A secondary theme relates to racial prejudice with a critical look at the relations between white Texans and the Mexican minority subordinated from an economic and social point of view, but paying the ultimate price when World War II breaks.

(video source JMoneyYourHoney)

The rich epic allows director George Stevens and the lead actors a careful and detailed development of the characters. I did a fascinating exercise looking at the actors in historical perspective. All were when the movie was made at the pick of their artistic capacities and physical beauty. Make-up and their talent helped them growing old in the movie and reaching an age that Hudson and Taylor reached in real life, but not Dean.  Results differ. Rock Hudson matures and gets old in ‘Giant’ with the same nobility and style he did mature before being hit by AIDS in the last years of his life. Elizabeth Taylor gets old in the film with a dignity and vibration that could not be seen in her public appearances in the 70s or 80s when the excesses and extravagances of her style of life destroyed her physically leaving only her beautiful eyes to continue to fascinate. James Dean makes what was maybe the most interesting role in the film and the most complex in his painfully short career. We cannot know for sure how Dean would have looked like at older age, but we can imagine his physiognomy similar to the one here minus the negative character exaggeration. Another interesting appearance is the young Denis Hopper, the son of Hudson and Taylor in the film, in his first important role, the first in a series of low self-confidence characters role.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2dzi0gyCDDw

(video source CnetProductions2)

The film can be seen on youTube  starting from http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2dzi0gyCDDw.

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‘Norma’ at the New Israeli Opera in Tel Aviv

In one of the best seasons of the New Israeli Opera in Tel Aviv that I can remember we watched on Saturday night the last performance of Bellini’s ‘Norma’. It also was probably the best music we got this season, as the conductor was Daniel Oren and as always when he is in charge the orchestra sounded clear and expressive, the musical phrasing was deep and emotive and the moments when the singers got lost in the noise were extremely rare if at all. The cast on the closing night was almost completely Italian, with Maria Agresta an deep and convincing Norma, Daniella Barcellona in the second (and consistent) soprano role a fragile but strong Adalgisa and Giorgio Bellugi an excellent Pollione.

Vincenzo Bellini - source http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Norma_%28opera%29

Unfortunately it was the staging that was left behind in the performance this time. We may have been spoiled by too many interesting directing experiments or performances mixing dance, special effects, fatuous costumes and set designs, so when these are just OK we have a feeling of unsatisfaction. Director Frederico Tiezzi brought nothing interesting or innovative to stage, and acting was very conventional and sketchy. Luckily the music saved the night and this is one of the most convincing scores in the romantic repertoire, emotional and rich in great areas, with complex phrases for the orchestra, so we felt overall fully compensated.

source http://www.israel-opera.co.il/Eng/?CategoryID=381&ArticleID=942

I could find no youTube or other clip from the performance in Tel Aviv, but there are plenty of other versions of the most popular areas. I picked three versions of the beautiful ‘Casta Diva’ starring three of the greatest sopranos who sang the role of Norma ever: Maria Callas (who also holds the record with the number of stage performances in this very demanding role), Montserrat Caballe, and Angela Gheorghiu. Compare and enjoy!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gZrao_GX4nk

(video source alphabliss)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8MfUsCP6d3U&feature=related

(video source Onegin65)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EZOVyyRTans&feature=related

(video source magghot)

bla3

Posted in opera | Tagged , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Muzee si expozitii in Bucuresti

Din recentul nostru periplu bucurestean nu puteau sa lipseasca vizitele in muzee si salile de expozitii. Din pacate am ratat la milimetru doua expozitii care s-au inchis exact in ziua sosirii noastre. Si totusi am reusit sa vedem cateva lucruri interesante chiar si in aceasta saptamana inainte de Paste, cand unele dintre spatiile de expunere se pregateau de vacanta sau de schimbarea expozitiilor.

sursa http://www.muzeulcotroceni.ro/

Descoperirea numarul unu a acestei vizite a fost fara indoiala Muzeul National Cotroceni institutie despre a carei existenta nu stiam mai nimic si cred ca ar trebui sa fiu cam rusinat din acest motiv. Spatiul de pe Dealul Cotrocenilor pe care in copilarie il cunosteam ca Palatul Pionierilor devenise inaccesibil majoritatii romanilor dupa cutremurul din 1977 cand Ceausescu a hotarit renovarea sa pentru a deveni rezidenta oficiala pentru oaspetii presedintelui. In cursul renovarii au fost recuperate si renovate cea mai mare parte a incaperilor noului palat construit in 1895 pentru a servi ca resedinta a printului mostenitor si viitorului rege Ferdinand, dar au fost si distruse urme mai vechi ale cladirilor din zona si in special biserica Cotroceni cu hramul Adormirii Maicii Domnului (reconstruita dupa 1990). Arhitectura palatului completeaza si complementeaza seria de palate construite de casa regala a Romaniei din care fac parte si Pelesul si Pelisorul din Sinaia. Pentru a vedea o parte din incaperile palatului puteti sa alegeti ‘Tur Virtual’ la http://www.muzeulcotroceni.ro/.

sursa http://www.muzeulcotroceni.ro/expo_prezent/elenacuza.html

In pretul de baza al biletului intra si vizitarea expozitiei istorice dedicata doamnei Elena Cuza, cea dintai Prima Doamna a Romaniei.

sursa http://www.muzeulcotroceni.ro/expo_prezent/iser.html

Expozitiile de arta (cu plata suplimentara) sunt cele care ne-au atras in mod deosebit atentia. Superba este retrospectiva Iosif Iser care sub titlul modest ‘Univers cromatic Iosif Iser’ aduna creatii ale artistului din muzeele de arta centrale si regionale din tara. Expozitia acopera toate etapele importante ale creatiei artistului si temele principale ale picturii sale. Un catalog excelent insoteste expozitia care ar merita un spatiu mai central chiar si la Muzeul National de Arta, sau macar mai multa publicitate.

sursa http://www.muzeulcotroceni.ro/expo_prezent/elenacuza.html

‘Theodor Aman pictor si gravor’ este o alta expozitie de pictura care merita sa fie vizitata. Cum muzeul Aman din spatele Bibliotecii Centrale Universitare este inchis de mai multi ani (renovarea pare terminata, cel putin la exterior dar …) vizitarea acestei expozitii este probabil singura alternativa de a vedea reunite cele mai importante opere ale unuia dintre pictorii romani nationali impreuna cu lucrari mai putin cunoscute, care lumineaza perioade si aspecte mai putin cunoscute ale creatiei sale. Cunoastem cu totii tablourile aproape ‘oficiale’ ale lui Tudor Vladimirescu sau scena Unirii sau portrete cum este cel al lui Ioan Heliade-Radulescu. Ceea ce poate mai putini stiu este ca Aman a creat si multe peisaje si portrete de mici dimensiuni, a cunoscut si a fost influentat si de academismul francez dar si de inceputurile impresionismului, si tocmai aceste lucrari mai putin cunoscute mie, dar radiind frumusete si expresivitate mi-au placut cel mai mult. Si aceasta expozitie are un catalog excelent. Expozitiile Iser si Aman sunt deschise pana la sfarsitul lui mai.

sursa http://www.muzeulcotroceni.ro/expo_prezent/pallady.html

Tripticul expozitiilor de arta este completat de o expozitie a lucrarilor lui Theodor Pallady din colectia Muzeului de Arta din Craiova, cu glosse pe tema ‘boieriei’ sale – noblete de spita si de atitudine. Cu toate ca sunt in expozitie cateva lucrari remarcabile expozitia pare (poate si in comparatie cu celelalte doua) mai ‘subtire’.

sursa http://www.mnar.arts.ro/Home

La Muzeul National de Arta al Romaniei singura expozitie care atrage atentia este cea intitulata ‘Marianne, muza a creatorilor’. Este o combinatie interesanta care porneste de la costumele create de creatorii de moda si costume Alfred Choubrac şi Minon pentru filmele franceze de la inceputul secolului trecut care aveau ca personaj principal pe Marianne – simbolul feminin al Frantei, al valorilor si al frumusetii galice. In completarea litografiilor de epoca sunt aduse creatii ale unui sir de designeri si creatori de moda francezi si romani care dezvolta si ei subiectul Marianne si creaza cate o rochie sau costum in interpretarea proprie a fiecaruia.

Palatul Shutzu

Un alt muzeu redescoperit in aceasta vizita a fost Muzeul Municipiului Bucuresti. Il vizitasem poate ca elev, dar il uitasem in timp si acum multumita colegilor de liste internetice l-am redescoperit.

Palatul Shutzu - scarile interioare

Splendida cladire care il adaposteste este Palatul Shutzu din piata Universitatii construit de arhitectii vienezi Johann Veit si Conrad Schwinck in 1833-1844 si cu interioarele proiectate de sculptorul si decoratorul Karl Storck pe la 1862. De atunci dateaza holul de intrare, elegantele scari interioare si ceasul propectat sa fie vazut de la intrare in oglinda, de fapt mergand invers sensului acelor de ceasornic obisnuite.

ceasul in oglinda

In secolul 20 cladirea si-a schimbat de mai multe ori destinatia. In timpul primului razboi mondial a fost sediul guvernatorului german al Bucurestilor sub ocupatie, pentru ca in perioada interbelica sa gazduiasca pentru o vreme sediul Primariei. Dupa ce a mai fost sediu de banca si al CEC, din 1959 a devenit muzeu.

Mihaela Stan - icoana

Radu Dinca - icoana in fereastra

In holul de la intrare am putut vizita o frumoasa expozitie de icoane – dovada ca aceasta forma de arta plastica traditionala, dintre cele mai vechi practicate pe teritoriul Romaniei este continuata astazi, in atmosfera de libertate si de renastere religioasa de dupa 1990. Sunt foarte multe lucrari frumoase ale unor artisti ale caror nume din pacate mie nu imi spun prea multe, si care lucreaza in tehnici diferite, de la pictura traditionala pe lemn, gravura in metal, pictura pe sticla, sau tehnici mixte si compozitii mai sofisticate.

biblia lui Serban Cantacuzino in sala de istorie a secolelor 17-18

biroul primarului Capitalei

strazi si numere

Este interesanta si merita un ragaz de vizitare si expozitia permanenta a muzeului. Salile sunt putin cam aglomerate si tehnicile de expunere cam desuete, dar multe dintre exponate, fotografii, documente sunt interesante pentru cei interesati de istoria Bucurestilor sau de istorie in general.

sursa http://www.mnir.ro/ro/ExpozitiiTemporare/FotoExpozitieTemporara.aspx?IDObiect=910

Muzeul National de Istorie al Romaniei se afla intr-o permanenta renovare. Cred ca nu a fost ocazie cand am ajuns aici in ultimul deceniu sa nu gasesc cel putin o parte din muzeu inchisa si colectiile principale macar in parte inaccesibile. Stiind acest lucru am dedicat doar vreo ora vizitarii expozitiei temporare ’70/80 – Tineretea noastra’ – o expozitie documentara care prezinta metodele de recrutare a informatorilor si modul in care era supravegheata de catre Securitate viata cetatenilor Romaniei si in special a tinerilor in vremea comunismului. Recomand vizitarea expozitiei si celor care au trait epoca si celor care au avut sansa de a se naste destul de tarziu pentru a nu cunoaste ce inseamna cu adevarat o dictatura.

Relu si Marijana Bitulescu - stairway to heaven

Relu si Marijana Bitulescu - inger

Relu si Marijana Bitulescu - eva

Sunt multe galerii noi in Bucuresti, dar doua dintre ele situate pe bulevardul Magheru au existat si pe vremea cand locuiam in oras si continua sa fie active si reprezentative. La galeria Simeza expun pana la sfarsitul acestei saptamani artistii de origine din Craiova Relu si Marijana Bitulescu. Am fost atras initial de numele expozitiei – ‘Stairways to Heaven’ – titlul piesei celei mai indragite din repertoriul lui Led Zeppelin, si am parasit galeria dupa ce am cunoscut arta unei perechi de artisti care mi-au placut. O parte din lucrarile lor din aceasta expozitie se ocupa de teme inspirate din Biblie, de relatia dintre personajele principale si simbolistica religioasa in dialog cu materia si modul de exprimare al artistilor. Sunt lucrari interesante, incitante, niciuna dintre ele aproape nu lasa observatorul indiferent, invitand la meditatie si dialog.

Georgeta Grabobschi - Dans - sursa http://www.galeria-orizont.ro/includes/showpic.php?picid=3751

La galeria Orizont expune Georgeta Grabovschi – pictorita interesanta ale caror jocuri geometrice de forma si culoare mi-au atras atentia, in ciuda modului cam neglijent de expunere (lucrarile pictoritei nu sunt grupate, ci expuse fara o delimitare clara pe registrul superior al peretilor galeriei).

sursa http://artofpetry.blogspot.com/2010/09/atelierul-de-caricatura-horatiu-malaele.html

Atelierul de Caricatura

Inchei cu semnalarea unui spatiu de expunere al lucrarilor caricaturistilor bucuresteni creat si patronat de Horatiu Malaele pe strada Smardan, in inima a ceea ce a devenit in ultimii ani zona cea mai fierbinte de divertisment al Bucurestilor. Deschis in toamna trecuta ‘Atelierul de Caricatura’ prezinta un aspect care mie imi era necunoscut al artistului complex care este Malaele si din nou trebuie sa multumesc bunilor prieteni bucuresteni care mi-au revelat si acest detaliu. Despre Malaele si alte fatete ale creatiei sale sper sa gasesc ragaz sa scriu mai in detaliu in curand.

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Seri de teatru in Bucuresti

Una dintre amintirile copilariei si adolescentei este legata de pasiunea mea pentru film. Locuind aproape de ceea ce era si nu mai este ‘bulevardul cinematografelor’ adica portiunea din bulevardul cu multe nume pe care la un moment dat erau sase cinematografe si inca cel putin ateata prin jur, in multe din vacantele ‘mici’ de iarna sau de primavara vedeam cate un film pe zi. Am incercat o performanta asemanatoare in vacanta noastra bucuresteana din saptamana trecuta programandu-ne sase spectacole de teatru pentru cele sase seri pe care le-am petrecut in Bucuresti si am fi reusit sa o realizam dar la unul dintre ele s-a imbolnavit un actor si spectacolul a fost contramandat, asa incat seara de teatru s-a transformat in … seara de film … la televizor. In realizarea aproape-recordului am fost desigur ajutati de bunii nostri prieteni din Bucuresti care ne-au comandat biletele si s-au dus sa le ridice pe cele comandate de noi prin telefon. Din pacate teatrele bucurestene (cu exceptia cred a teatrului Bulandra) nu au adoptat inca sistemele de comanda a biletelor prin Internet sau macar prin telefon care sa garanteze ca biletele pot fi ridicate la casa in seara spectacolului – ceea ce face dificila daca nu imposibila comandarea de bilete si asigurarea locurilor in avans din strainatate.

Conu Iancu ne priveste

Daca tot vorbim despre bilete, pretul acestora se ridica la cel mult 30-32 de lei noi pentru locurile cele mai bune, ceea ce echivaleaza cu vreo 11 dolari americani – a zecea parte din pretul unor bilete pe Broadway, intre o treime si a cincea parte din pretul biletelor off-Broadway sau la spectacole similare in Israel. Daca pentru spectatorul roman biletele sunt destul de scumpe, raportul de preturi este greu explicabil intr-o tara in care preturile au ajuns comparabile ca nivel cu cele vest-europeene in majoritatea domeniilor. Impactul acestor preturi reduse relativ se resimte si in bine si in rau. Pe de o parte salile sunt pline, toate spectacolele bune se joaca cu casa inchisa si biletele la ele se epuizeaza in dimineata zilei in care sunt puse in vanzare. In sali majoritatea spectatorilor sunt tineri, lucru firesc daca ne gandim la faptul ca un bilet de teatru costa cel mult dublu fata de un bilet de film (in Israel raportul este cam 6 la 1). Pe de alta parte actorii sunt prost platiti si te doare sufletul auzind despre maestri ai scenei romanesti care iesiti la pensie abia isi duc zilele daca nu reusesc sa fie distribuiti in roluri pe scena sau in filme (si in Romania cele mai bine platite fiind telenovelele).

personajele lui Caragiale in viziunea lui Ioan Bolborea in fata Nationalului din Bucuresti

Doua decenii si jumatate si transformarile sociale si politice prin care a trecut Romania in aceasta vreme nu puteau sa nu-si puna amprenta asupra teatrului bucurestean. Si totusi parca elementele de continuitate sunt cele care predomina. Nucleul de teatre de valoare a ramas exact acelasi si apropriata a ramas si ierarhia dintre ele. Teatrul Bulandra continua sa fie in frunte, Nationalul si Comedia il urmeaza de aproape, apoi Nottara si Odeon. Putine teatre noi, Metropolis (pe care il vazusem cu ‘Podu’ in Israel cu cateva saptamani in urma) fiind unul dintre putinele nume care nu existau si acum 30 de ani. Au disparut in eternitate multe dintre fiintele actorilor romani pe care ii indragisem in anii 70 si 80, unii la varsta fireasca, altii (George Constantin, Stefan Iordache) prea devreme, consumati de intensitatea vietii pe care au trait-o si artei pe care au creat-o. Au ramas dupa ei amintirile si traditia. Si totusi i-am mai putut prinde pe scena chiar si in aceste numai cinci seri pe Mircea Albulescu, pe Ion Lucian si pe Ileana Stana Ionescu (in rol secundar). Regizorii de marca sunt unii dintre cei pe care ii cunosteam din anii tineretii – am vazut un spectacol al lui Giurchescu, am aflat (si vazut la gala UNITER care a avut loc in acele zile) ca David Esrig sau Andrei Serban s-au intors macar temporar din exilurile lor pentru a monta din nou intr-o Romanie fara cenzura si presiunile politice care i-au indepartat de tara. Desigur lista de monstri sacri ai scenei romanesti de astazi arata altfel dar ii regasim aici pe cativa dintre cei care se aflau deja in galeria de onoare (Albulescu, Rebengiuc) si pe cei pe care puteam paria de atunci ca ii vom afla astazi pe podium – Mircea Diaconu, Ion Caramitru, George Mihaita, Horatiu Malaele. Nu intamplator toti acestia mentionati de mine sunt astazi si directori de teatre si este reconfortant sa vedem marile personalitati actoricesti ale generatiei mature la conducerea teatrelor in functiile de mare raspundere pentru destinul teatrelor care devenisera conditionate politic in perioada de dupa revolutia culturala ceausista. Ceea ce este insa cel mai important este ca au aparut generatii noi care includ nume pe care eu nu le-am cunoscut – actori excelenti si regizori cu talent si viziune care nu sunt cu nimic mai prejos decat cei din marile generatii care i-au precedat.

(video source SensoTvRO)

Cel mai bun spectacol pe care l-am vazut in aceasta scurta stagiune personala a fost ‘Arta’ al Yasminei Reza la sala Studio a Teatrului Bulandra. Piesa se ocupa de felul in care clasa mijlocie din lumea occidentala de astazi se raporteaza la arta si de modul in care arta influenteaza relatiile de prietenie intre cele trei personaje ale piesei. Serge (Serban Pavlu) plateste 35 de mii de euro pentru un tablou … perfect alb. Marc (Vlad Zamfirescu) incearca sa-i explice absurditatea alegerii sale. Yvan (Gheorghe Ifrim) incearca sa intervina si sa aplaneze conflictul escaland dintre cei doi prieteni. Urmeaza o discutie despre arta, despre prietenie, despre modul in care ne raportam la obiectul de arta, despre valoarea artei si valoarea prieteniei. Primele 30 de minute ale piesei au fost poate cea mai buna jumatate de ora de teatru pe care am vazut-o in ultimii ani, dar toata reprezentatia in general se mentine la un nivel inalt, captiveaza si absoarbe in pofida temei aparent abstracte. Regizorul este Cristi Juncu, regizor relativ tanar, fost student al Catalinei Buzoianu, care intr-o cariera care se intinde pe doar 16 ani pare sa fi realizat multe spectacole interesante pe scene romanesti in special in provincie, acesta fiind debutul sau la ‘Bulandra’.

Doamne, ce macel! - sursa http://www.ziarulring.ro/stiri/15367/doamne-ce-macel-la-teatrul-de-comedie

Dramaturga franceza Yasmina Reza pare a fi o autoare foarte in voga in acest moment in Bucuresti, cu trei spectacole la trei teatre diferite din Capitala. Am mai vazut un spectacol al ei in ultima mea seara teatrala in Bucuresti la sala Studio (sala mica) a  Teatrului de Comedie. Titlul romanesc al piesei este ‘Doamne, ce macel!’ si regia ii apartine lui Lucian Giurchescu. Intriga piesei aduce in scena doua cupluri din aceeasi clasa mijlocie franceza a caror copii avusesera o altercatie pe o strada a unui oras de provincie. Situatiile care urmeaza se refera ca si in ‘Arta’ la doua planuri – cel al relatiilor dintre personaje in permanenta dinamica pe toata durata spectacolului si cel al relatiei intre personaje si o Cauza externa majora – in acest caz situatia Africii despre care unul dintre personaje scrie carti. Derizoriul si vulgarul cotidianului va inunda scena si va determina evolutia personajelor intr-un spectacol in care experimentatul Giurchescu pare sa fi dorit sa puna accentul pe partea de divertisment si pe constructia migaloasa a unei  tensiuni comice care explodeaza spre final. Spectacolul place desi in amintire ramane mai ales tipologia si burlescul. Il ajuta excelent echipa de actori formata din Tania Popa, Marius Drogeanu, Delia Nartea si Alexandru Conovaru.

Comedia norilor - sursa http://www.tnb.ro/admin/galerii/1109_big.jpg

Al doilea spectacol ca nivel calitativ (dupa ‘Arta’) pe care l-am vazut in aceste zile a fost ‘Comedia Norilor’ dupa Aristofan la Teatrul National. Acest ‘dupa’ din titlul spectacolului indica din start ca avem de a face cu unul dintre acele spectacole care plecand de la un text clasic (‘Norii’ in acest caz) il adapteaza si ca forma de exprimare si in multe cazuri si ca tema si mesaj. Asa se face ca textul antic care in contextul sau original era o pledoarie pentru judecata dreapta si aderenta la traditie amenintate de retorica si elucubratiile filozofilor sofisti intr-o Atena abia iesita din ciclul razboaielor cu Sparta devine in prelucrarea moderna si adaptarea lui Dan Tudor (care semneaza si regia) si Andrei Marinescu o parabola care vorbeste mai mult despre societatea romaneasca, politica si moravurile ciocoilor si neo-parvenitilor contemporani. Dan Tudor care trebuie sa fie cam coleg de generatie cu Cristi Juncu creaza un spectacol dinamic si antrenant, care imbina jocul teatral cu miscarea si dansul, cu muzica si cu efectele speciale. Mircea Albulescu straluceste in rolul unui Socrate cu casca de motociclist, din restul unei distributii excelente i-as mai mentiona si pe Alexandru Bindea (in rolul lui Strepsiade), Monica Davidescu si Ilinca Goia (Rationamentul Drept si Nedrept).

escu - sursa http://www.comedie.ro/index.php?pagina=spectacol-poza&id=166&id_spectacol=21

Tot despre politica romaneasca se vorbeste si in piesa ‘…escu’ a lui Tudor Musatescu pusa in scena de Alexandru Dabija la Teatrul de Comedie. In perioada comunista se reprezenta mai ales ‘Titanic Vals’ si mai putin sau deloc aceasta urmare care include o acerba satira a pestritei politici romanesti interbelice, inclusiv a celei socialiste, motiv suficient pentru a fi pusa la index sau macar tinuta strans sub vizor. Am spus politica interbelica, dar probabil mai exact ar fi al eternei politici romanesti si nu numai romanesti. ‘…escu’ este dupa parerea mea o constructie dramatica solida, are dialoguri spumoase si se aproprie in multe momente de piesele marelui precursor Caragiale. Spectacolul de la Comedie este conceput la modul solid si cu respect fata de text, bazandu-se in mare masura pe jocul unei excelente echipe de actori care isi fac cu prisosinta datoria. In rolul cameleonului politic Decebal Necsulescu devenit senator, devenit (aproape) ministru straluceste Vladimir Gaitan, actor ajuns in maxima forma si capacitate de expresie a carerei sale. Ion Lucian este Iorgu Langada si la varsta sa acest veteran al scenei face fata cu brio rolului si cerintelor a doua ore si 50 de minute de spectacol. L-am vazut acum cativa ani in ‘Comedia rosie’ la National, poate cel mai bun rol al carierei sale, si nu ma pot opri sa nu admir din nou evolutia la senectute a acestui actor pe care marturisesc ca nu l-am apreciat destul in tineretea lui (si a mea). Din restul distributiei ii voi mai mentiona pe Marius Florea Vizante (mi s-a spus ca este actor de mare suces, cred ca este prima data cand il vad pe scena) si pe Delia Nartea.

Filarmonica de comedie - sursa http://www.comedie.ro/index.php?pagina=spectacol-poza&id=810&id_spectacol=87

Ultimul spectacol despre care am de relatat este ‘Filarmonica de comedie’ din nou al Teatrului de Comedie. Este vorba despre un proiect care aduce pe scena o colectie de sketchuri inspirate din actualitatea moderna romaneasca, desi din nou multe dintre situatiile comice ar avea rezonanta cam in orice loc in lume. Echipa de actori din care fac parte Marius Florea Vizante, Gheorghe Ifrim şi Radu Gabriel reusesc sa anime in unele momente de comedie buna scena, dar totusi nivelul general al spectacolului nu mi s-a parut ca atinge cerintele uneia dintre primele scene ale Bucurestiului. Ceea ce se potriveste bine intr-un spectacol de revista sau intr-un show de televiziune are nevoie de o scanteie sau de un element de culoare deosebit pe scena de teatru profesionist pentru a se transforma intr-un spectacol. Acestea mi s-au parut a lipsi in acest caz.

Nu stiu cat de reprezentativa a fost selectia pe care am facut-o din spectacolele stagiunii bucurestene. Nu a fost de fapt chiar o selectie, ci mai mult o colectie instantanee, un ‘snapshot’ determinat si de date si de accesul la bilete. Fata de anii precedenti teatrul romanesc mi se pare a fi intr-o forma buna, salile sunt din ce in ce mai pline, spectacolele mai rotunde si mai profesioniste, cu momente de nivel excelent. Daca ceva mi-a lipsit a fost piesa de actualitate, satira sau analiza politica, raportarea la prezentul pe care romanii il traiesc cu intensitate si cu o atitudine extrem de critica. Se poate discuta despre prezent pe scena folosind texte clasice cum a fost in ‘Comedia norilor’ sau in ‘…escu’ dar parca nu este suficient, parca lipsesc echivalentele scenice ale filmelor romanesti de succes din ultimii ani care sunt multe dintre ele foarte ancorate in realitate sau in trecutul imediat. Poate le-am ratat eu in selectia neselectie, sau poate ele ma vor astepta la intalnire in vizitele viitoare in Bucuresti.

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Gica Manescu – Intre ciocan si nicovala

Gica Manescu mi-a permis preluarea acestui articol care ridica cateva probleme interesante despre etica si tehnologia medicala si situatia sistemului medical in Israel privite din perspectiva sa profesionala si a experientei de viata.

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Asistam de catva timp la o modificare demografica, un tablou al omenirii la care probabil putini s-au gandit. Longevitatea a crescut simtitor in tarile dezvoltate – inclusiv Israel – contrar celor din lumea zisa “a 3–a”, unde media de viata e scazuta, iar mortalitatea infantila  foarte ridicata.

Descoperiri inimaginabile in stinta atragand cercetari minutioase si costisitoare cu imbunatatirea metodelor de investigatie si tratament au schimbat tabloul. La acestea se adauga extinderea medicinii preventive si a cresterii interesului si cunostintelor ale celor in cauza.

Eram copil, cand fratele bunicii mele, “batranul Zalman“ ( avea 56 ani), a murit in urma consecintelor unui diabet grav. Un barbat voinic, supraponderal, fumator si fara o dieta alimentara adecvata. Isi facea injectii cu insulina.  Uneori cam   “dupa ochi“. Nici nu se pomenea, dar nici nu  se stia de aparate simple, pe care in zilele noatre fiecare bolnav de diabet le are in sertar.

Cine stia de trigliceride sau de colesterolul “bun” si “rau “? Se stia ca o tensiune arteriala peste 150 mm poate fi daunatoare tinand seama de varsta? Sau cate globule rosii trebuie sa avem in sange?

source http://www.doctortoday.co.uk/ultrasound.htm

Acum mai multe zeci de ani, intr-o invitatie a unei unitati medicale adresata medicilor pentru “Nouatati in Medicina“ am aflat ultima: Ecografia. Vizualizarea unor organe interne prin ultra-sunet. S-a inceput  prin examinarea inimii, cu imaginea in  trei dimensiuni. Se vedeau lungimea, latimea si adancimea cavitatilor ei, masurate in cm. Cu timpul metoda s-a extins si la alte organe, ficat, rinichi, uter si altele. Pentru acesta din urma, foarte important pentru parinti, pentru a se putea cunoaste fatul din primele luni ale vietii. Se pot  constata eventualele malformatii congenitale sau dezvoltarea normala a lui. Examene medicale de mare folos.

Tot  cam atunci s-a raspandit cuvantul AIDS (SIDA pentru francofoni) – niste initiale ale deficientii imunitatii corpului nostru, in anumite situatii. Ce legatura are cu narcomanii si homosexualii? Daca si cum se molipseste? L-am vazut in filme pe atragatorul Rock Hudson care dupa 1 – 2 ani, a murit bolnav de AIDS. Mai apoi pe Anthony Perkins, slabit, daramat, cu aceiasi soarta.

Dupa ani de munca a specialistilor s-au imbunatatit si extins metodele de investigatie, control si tratamente. S-a prelungit viata celor atinsi din vina altora, constienti de ce ii asteapta. La noi, a murit “de rusine“ spun eu, frumoasa si talentata cantareata Ofra Haza. Pacat.

Prin reportaje si sfaturi la radio, televiziune si presa scrisa, oamenii de ambele sexe stiu sa se pazeasca de unele si altele, nu evita examinarile si tratamentele. “Balonas la inima“ se aude in mod curent. Se evita infarcturi si circulatia defectuoasa a sangelui in inima. Varste de la 70 ani incolo nu sunt rare.

source professiongenie.com

Se alearga la medici, se asteapta zile si chiar saptamani pentru “tor“- momentul cand ii vine randul, chiar intr-o “coada“, pentru analize, rezultate si tratamente. Cozile s-au scos din programe prin electronica la zi, primirea unui biletel cu un numar lizibil pe un  ecran. Dar ce folos, ora capatata la medic spre exemplu nu e niciodata cea promisa. Timpul consacrat ar fi bun de a intra in cabinet, a spune  ‘SHALOM“, a lua niste prescrieri de medicamente sau unele recomandari – la specialisti, la un laborator, s.a – si o eventuala masurare a tensiunii arteriale. Trebuie sa faca si medicul un gest din profesie, nu numai sa fie contopist. Apoi, la revedere. Dar un medic rabdator si constincios, cu inima mai aproape de semen depaseste cele 10 minute prevazute de birocratie si nepriceputi. De aici, orele propuse nu  mai corespund si asteptarea pe coridor se intinde in timp. Nemultumirea e generala si rabdarea are totusi limite. Asta e “organjzarea” – parca batuta in  cuie. Privirea iti cade pe oamenii din salile de asteptare. E ca un camin  de batrani. Doar la sectia de pediatrie e o “ gradinita de copii “.

In fiecare toamna,  se fac vaccinarile de imunizare contra gripei. Dar nu inseamna ca toata populatia e tratata cu injectia respectiva,  si nici ca nu apar cazuri de gripa. Uneori chiar epidemii, necesitand internarea in  spitale. Aici se da totul peste cap. Se fac externari precoce, se umplu coridoarele cu paturi si se ocupa cu bolnavii, deobicei “de varsta a treia“, slabiti  si neputincjosi. Unii “pleaca“ la mai bine, cel putin asa se crede, dar in pamant e frig, dar nu pentru ei. Pentru unele semanaturi.

Medicii si personalul ajutator sunt depasiti, unele medicamente incep sa se epuizeze, se cauta vinovati. S-a cerut candva demisia Ministrului Sanatatii (ca tatal care scoate patul din camera fetei adolescente, sa evite “fapte rusinoase“). Se mai transfera bolnavi prin alte sectii sau la alte spitale. E bine, dar nu e de ajuns, Zilele se scurg, epidemia scade, si totul va intra in asa zisul normal cotidian pana la iarna viitoare.

Sacul visteriei s-a mai golit, e greu de reumplut. Toti cer si toti sustin prioriotatea. De 2 ani nu avem  Minisru al Sanatatiii. Primul Ministru tine locul. Doar el e specialist in toate. Un specialist in materie nu s-a putut gasi sau nici nu s-a cautat. Este doar un adjunct. O fi destept, dar mai mult in relatiile cu Cel de Sus. Asta invata si practica rabinii. Medicina, doar cu sfaturi, pe care le au fara sfarsit, Totul e ca un cutit cu doua taisuri. Imi vine in minte ce s-a intamplat cand doi se certau pentru ceva si nu se intelegeau. Au cautat sfatul unui Rabin intelept. Acesta, dupa ce  a ascultat ambele versiuni a spus, aratand cu degetul catre cei doi :” Tu ai dreptate, si tu ai dreptate dar si eu am dreptate“. N-a fost chiar o judecata Solomonica.

source selfishgiving.com

Eu, daca as fi fost un donator bogat, un “mecena“ (tare mi-ar  fi  placut, nu sa vad numele meu pe frontispiciul asezamantului, ca Wolfsohn sau Shiba) as fi dat viata unei idei ce-mi trece prin  minte. Constructia in unele localitati a unor  spitale mai mici cu doar 3 sectii: boli interne, chirurgie-ortopedie si pediatrie. Cele mari, “uzinele medicale”, clinicele universitare sa ramana  unde si cum sunt. Am vazut modelul  propus in Elvetia si Grmania.

E un vis. Dar si  visele iti pot aduce o bucurie, dar  de scurta durata. Parafrazandu-l pe Herzl, spun si eu “Daca voi vreti, va fi posibil”.

Gica

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Erica Hoffer – A Trip to South India

India is one of those places I dream to visit one day, but I am not sure I will ever get to. I have read a lot about this fabulous country and I know it’s just a drop in a sea of knowledge about a huge country and a great civilization. In the meantime my friend Erica Hoffer is at her second visit to India, and this time she has traveled to the South of the sub-continent. Here are her travel notes and a few of the photos she made during her trip.

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I cannot explain why I was always so attracted by India. Maybe the gracious silhouettes of the sari-dressed women, the orgy of strong colors, the luxuriant vegetation, the wealth of smells (not all pleasant though) and tastes quite unusual for our taste buds, all these gave, in my eyes, an irresistible aura to this country (subcontinent). Fascination with India is strong among Israeli youngsters. According to Israeli and Indian officials, between 40,000 and 60,000 young Israelis have either permanently moved or established long-term residence in India.

Attracted and curious to check by myself what might be the source of this attraction I arranged for myself and three companions an “independent'” trip to South India. “Independent” means not organized with group, guide and bus but organized by us with public transportation or driver+car. Why south and not the more travelled north? It is believed that south India is less poor, beggars less persistent, not many people living on the street. Possible, I could not compare.

So, after some research in many on-line tourist guides, blogs and brochures and frantic emailing with Kamu, the owner of a company providing cars with driver, highly recommended by folks from the “Lametayel” site I succeeded to plan a two week tour to include visits to major temples in Tamil Nadu, towns, places of natural beauty. We started our trip in Chennai (Madras), went south in Tamil Nadu to visit Mahabalipuram, Pondicherry, Tanjavur, Madurai for temples. Then the Arabian Sea resort of Varkala, the Backwater canals of Kerala, Cochin for its Jewish connection, Munar and Otti for the gorgeous sights of tea plantations and Mysore famous for the Palace, the silks, spices, sandalwood. We were to return to Mumbai from Bengalore where our trip with car and driver was to end.

I will not make her a day to day report of this trip, but rather tell about the things that impressed me most, both in a positive and also in a negative way

Strong for the senses: colors, smells. Here everything is colorful. Have a look at the saris: first picture at the caves in Mahabalipuram

Above: wedding at the Madurai temple:

Below: Colored incense at the Mysore market:

Waiting in line at the Mysore temple to receive holy water from the priest:

Smells:

Spices: cumin, cardamom, curry are prevalent. But garbage is everywhere: along the roads, in every free space. I am not sure that removing garbage is at all possible in a country of….million. Somehow it does not seem to disturb. Here, for example at the entrance of a very famous temple:

Among praying people:

Sometimes we were surprised to enter bad smelling hotel lobbies but to find exceptional nice rooms. So, in India, do not judge a place according to its smell!!

The street

Let’s state one simple fact: beside in big cities, there are no sidewalks in Indian cities.

What one calls street is a paved portion on which cars, buses, rikshas, trucks, bicycles, cows and people compete. Priority is achieved by honking; the louder is that to whom priority is given. On both sides of this chaotic moving portion there are broad strips of earth covered by parked cars and garbage. People move on the narrow interface between the earth strip and the moving portion. It is easier to go on the paved side and usually one does not get hit by a vehicle. Given the chaotic movement on the pavement (we found ourselves many times facing cars coming from the opposite direction), the number of accidents we encountered was very low.

Here are two photos taken from our car in Mahabalibupuram:

In big cities there are sidewalks, but they are either occupied by street vendors or in very bad condition.

For example in Mumbai, in the fashionable Colaba neighborhood:

There are reparations though:

But it does not stay for long:

Sometimes, it is not easy to to walk on sidewalks. Then you have to buy:

Vegetation is lush and this is what makes the places so attractive.

For example the garden of a hotel in Mahabalibupuram:

Or the picturesque Backwater canals in Kerala:

The Indians

Trying as much as possible to avoid generalizations, one cannot deny the overall impression of gentle, willing to help, good humored people. Of course there where taxi drivers who cheated, but the majority of locals we dealt with were hard-working and extremely pleasant persons.

We were mostly impressed by our driver, Khartik , who was both our mother and

father and helped each time when something happened to one of us. His driving skills were unbelievable.

When talking with Indians we observed they did a quite unusual movement of their head (inclining the head to both sides, a few times to each direction). First we sought it must be a negative answer to our question, but then it appeared like a sign they were thinking what answer to give.

Places that impressed me most:

The Meenakshi Temple in Madurai

The tea plantations in Munar. I could not believe how beautiful tea plantations can be:

The old synagogue in Kochin:

The Palace in Mysore:

The palace that belonged to the Wodeyar kings was first built in the 14th century. It was demolished and constructed multiple times. The current palace construction was completed in 1912 and expanded later around 1940.

A virtual tour of the whole palace can be found at

http://www.mysorepalace.tv/360_Eng/index.html

Having in view the strict prohibition of taking pictures inside the palace, this site provides the only opportunity to see the interior of the palace.

We did not see the illuminated palace as shown above; the illumination is only on Sundays, but I place the photo as a closing view of glorious India.

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