An European Vacation / 4 – On the Streets of Schaffhausen

After the visit in the Munster zu Allerheiligen we spent the next few hours of the second day morning in the streets of Schaffhausen. The city of 35000 inhabitants was mentioned first as a city state in 1045, and joined the Swiss confederation in 1501.

Metzgerbrunnen fountain

The old city streets must be quite crowded during the pick season, but during that cloudy last Saturday morning of August the crowds were not excessive. We started by admiring two medieval fountains ornate with statues – the first of a Swiss mercenary dated 1524 …

Mohrenbrunnen fountain

… and the second of a Moorish king from 1535.

zum Steinbock house

Most significant are however the houses in the old city that preserve the original shape, ornaments and exterior frescoes from the medieval times until today. There are around 170 such houses in the Schaffhausen old city, in a mix of Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque styles, 35 of them are listed as national heritage monuments of exceptional value. For example the zum Steinstock house is covered with Roccoco ornaments …

zum Ochsen house

… while the zum Ochsen house which was originally an inn during the Middle Ages was renovated in 1608 and Gothic ornaments and frescoes were added on the facade.

zum Grossen Kafig house

Most impressive are the frescoes on the zum Grossen Kafig house representing the triumphal parade of Tamerlane after having taken as prisoner the Turkish sultan Baiazid.

the Schwabentor

Nearby the Schwabentor built in 1380 represented in the past the Northern gate of the city and is nowadays one of the remains of the wall that surrounded the old city.

zum Ritter house

The zum Ritter (Knight) house has probably the most beautiful exterior fresco in the city. Actually the current painting is a copy, the original being preserved in the city museum, which we visited later. Painted in 1570 with a theme inspired by The Iliad heroes it is considered one of the most beautiful Renaissance frescoes North of the Alps.

a meeting with Giora Feidman

Wondering on the streets of the city we saw a poster announcing that Giora Feidman was scheduled to play here soon with the Gershwin Quartet. Giora is born in Bassarabia, emigrated as a child to Argentine and then to Israel, where each year is one of the major musicians animating the Safed festival of klezmer music. I hope to have time to write about him sometimes on the Catcher.

time for tea?

Lunch time had come, but we had a rich breakfast, so we decided to skip. We examined a tea stand in front of the zu Ritter house, and I bought some herbs tea – I always like to explore new tastes in tea from various parts of the world.

... or time for a cake?

Than we started to look for a coffee and cakes place …

smiling cakes

… and we settled for a pretzel and a cake and of course, a good espresso at a place in front of the St Johann church. I do not remember its name, but it had some beautiful smiling cakes in the window, hard to miss it.

St Johann Church

We decided that we have enough time to visit the Museum zu Allerheiligen (which will be the subject of the next episode also including the meeting with an old and dear friend), but before it we entered the St Johann church, the second in fame (but largest in size) church in Schaffhausen.

detail in St Johann (1)

detail in St Johann (2)

We encountered here a similar history as in the Munster and other churches in this area of conflict between Reformation and Catholicism. The original parish church may have been built as early as around the year 1000. Then, when the Reformation took control of the whole area, the church was transformed, many of the cult objects removed and maybe destroyed, and the beautiful frescoes painted over in white. The current architecture of the church and the tower dates from the 18th century, but recent restoration work brought to light beautiful frescoes dating from around 1500 and this work may not be over. Today the church hosts many concerts of sacred music, especially Bach.

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Book: Imre Kertesz – Detective Novel (Detektivtortenet)

Born in a Jewish family in Budapest in 1929, Nobel-prize winner Imre Kertesz is a Holocaust survivor. In 1944 he was deported to Auschwitz, and liberated in Buchenwald in 1945. Part of his work is a reflection of the Holocaust experience, but there is a more general humanist and anti-totalitarian voice that can be felt in his work, a rejection of any ideology that denies human rights.

source http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Imre_Kert%C3%A9sz

The history of the creation of Detektivtortenet which I have read as Roman Policier in the French translation of Natalia Zaremba-Huzsvai and Charles Zaremba, illustrates this fundamental direction in the work of the Hungarian writer. It is more a novella than a novel, barely exceeding 100 pages, and was written in two weeks in the 1970s. Kertesz was trying to publish another novel in Communist Hungary of the time, and the editor was refusing to accept it because it was too short, below the ‘standard’ number of pages acceptable by the editorial policy. He had the idea and part of a text of what writers in the Communist countries of the time were calling a ‘drawer’ work, one of these texts of protest that had no chance to be published under the Communist censorship, a text about political power taken illegally and about the secret police not only supporting the totalitarian rule, but becoming the essence of it. In order to have his text published he accepts to change the setting of the story to an imaginary South-American country, hinting to Chile or Argentina, at that time under right-wing dictatorship regimes. It was a trick often used by East-European authors, and it worked – the Detective Novel was published.

source http://www.evene.fr/livres/livre/imre-kertesz-roman-policier-18516.php

As said, it’s not a novel, and it is not detective, although the principal hero and story-teller is a detective, one who had put himself at the service of the totalitarian regime, and now expects the punishment in jail, after the fall of his masters. Some of the best passages in the book are the dialogs between policemen, that catch the essence of the totalitarian state with its obsession on antisemitism (among other), and the transformation of the secret police into an autonomous monster that ends by dominating by terror the life of its subjects:

-Ecoute un peu. Descente, arrestation, interrogatoire, liquidation: d’acoord, c’est notre boulot. Mais pourquois est-ce que tu les detestes?

La-dessus il me retorque:

– Parce que c’est des juifs.

– Espece de connard, il y a dans ce grand pays tout au plus quelques centaines de juifs, si ca se trouve!

– Je m-en fous. Tous les mecontents sont des juifs. Et d’ailleurs qui d’autre que les juifs serait mecontents?

(pag. 20-21)

– …bref, a vrai dire je pensais que nous etions ici au service de la loi.

– Nous sommes ici au service du pouvoir, mon garcon …

– Je croyais jusqu’a present que c’etait pareil.

– Si on veut. Mais il ne faut pas oublier les priorites.

Et il m’a repondu avec son sourire inimitable:

– D’abord le pouvoir et ensuite seulement la loi.

(pag. 29-30)

The book is almost written in one breath, and can be read almost in one breath. Beyond decomposing and describing in details the mechanisms as well as the typical characters that can be found in the service of the secret police in a totalitarian state – the  leader with intellectual aspirations who will eventually disappear with the fall of the regime and save his skin, the sadist brute that bad times allow him to put his bestiality in the service of the system, the passive technocrat who does not have the power to resist or to avoid becoming an instrument of evil. It also does include a beautiful story of a failed tentative of survival, a demonstration about how hard it is in times of dictatorship for anybody to stay away from becoming part of at least one of the circles of oppressors or of oppressed.

The advantages of brevity and fast writing are also the disadvantages of the finished work. There is more promise in this book than the quick creation process under the pressure of the time allowed as each one of the six key characters (the three policemen and the three members of the Salinas clan) could have been developed as a strong character in a full-bodied novel. Yet, this novella about times of oppression written in other times of oppression leaves a strong impression and was for me an invitation to continue to explore more of the work of the Hungarian Nobel-prize winner.


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An European Vacation / 3 – The Schaffhausen Munster

Schaffhausen - Munsterplatz


Schaffhausen - solar clock in Munsterplatz


Day 2 of our vacation started with a tour of the center of the city of Schaffhausen. After finding a good parking place we crossed the street towards the historic old town, and found ourselves in the Munsterplatz. The style of the decorated buildings, some of them with exterior frescoes catches the eyes and I shall talk about some of the most beautiful of them in the next episode. One building however attracted our attention for the solar clock and the inscription indicating that the building was bombed in 1944 and rebuilt in 1945. This is related to one of the strange episodes of World War II – Schaffhausen being the only city in neutral Switzerland bombed by the allies during the war, on April 1st, 1944 and then again in February 1945. Although the allies claimed that the air force mistakenly bombed the town located close to the German border, is is suspected that the bombing may have been intentional, as some industries in the town were suppliers for the German army.

the Schaffhausen Muster zu Allerheiligen

The Munster zu Allerheiligen (All Saints Minster) was our first objective of the day. Believe it ir not, it is actually the first time I made the connection between the German word munster, the English minster and ministry, and the Romanian manastire. The first church on the site was built in 1049 under pope Leo IX, while the current building’s foundations were laid by the end of the 11th century, with the first part of the current building being finished by 1103. The next centuries saw the development of the cathedral, the building of the Romanesque tower and of the cloister in Romanesque-Gothic style, the largest in Switzerland.

Munster - West Portal bronze door


The access to the church is through a massive bronze door in the West Portal, created in 1959 by Otto Charles Banninger (1897-1973), representing the descend from the cross, and the symbols of the 4 evangelists, with a door handle in the form of a crown of thorns.

bronze bust of Albert Schweitzer


Immediately after entering the church, on the left, one can find the bust of the theologian, doctor and philosofer Albert Schweitzer (1875-1965), winner of the Nobel price for peace in 1952.

Munster - glass windows and tapestry


It’s a reformed church today, so the overall impression of of austerity and simplicity, enhancing the architectural elements of the building. 12 monolithic columns sustain the building, symbolizing the 12 apostles. On one of the them the capital has split and is held together with an iron brace – this is “Juda’s column”. The beautiful colored glass windows representing Jesus flanked by angels were made by Carl Roesch and below hangs a tapestry representing the Last Judgment by Lissy Funk.

Munster - detail of the Credo-frieze


It is however the few remains of the original medieval church paintings that deserve most of the attention for their beauty and originality. By the time of the Lutheran reformation in the 16th century most of the altars and cult objects were removed, and the original walls painted over. We were to meet this pattern of reformation taking over the Catholic churches and bringing essential changes to their appearance several times later in the trip in this area which was by the middle of the previous millennium on the line of conflict between Catholicism and Reformation. The little that was saved and restored in the Schaffhausen Munster has however the advantage of being authentic and has a remarkable artistic value. A Credo-frieze includes 12 beautiful medallions from the mid-15th century …

Munster - enthroned Mary with child


… and on one of the pillars a picture of the enthroned Mary with the child Jesus from around 1400 brings a striking resemblance to the Byzantine iconic representations and the later Russian icons descending from the same tradition.

Munster - squires cemetery in the cloister


We continued the visit in the interior cloister. Part of it hosts what was a cemetery in the walls of the minster for the noble squires of the city, with elaborated tombstones bearing witness of past times and men who were important enough to be buried here.

Munster cloister - herb garden


The gardens also include the huge Schiller bell cast in 1486 (Schiller never visited the place but wrote a famous poem about it based on a mention by Goethe) and the herb garden – kind of a botanical garden with elegant arcades on one of its sides. The smaller St. Anna chapel used by the Catholic community was unfortunately closed the day our visit.

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An European Vacation / 2 – Stein am Rhein

Waldhotel Hohberg in Schaffhausen


The hotel where we spent the first night in Schaffhausen is worth a few words. It was the only hotel we booked fr from the center of the city, for the rest of the trip we preferred to pay more and assume risks for a noisier place but be located near the places we knew we were to visit. In Schaffhausen we knew that we shall spend only one night, and the next day proceed on our way after visiting the city, so we picked the Waldhotel Hohberg, located at the outskirts of the city. The choice proved to be a good one.

horse riding ... in the hotel


The hotel is quiet, located in what seems an industrial area and near a big supermarket (so if you are in shopping mode it’s a good place – we were not – yet). It does not offer a great view, but it is well equipped, enough parking space, good Internet connectivity, and one attraction that makes it fun if you travel with kids – a riding arena with horses and ponies inside the hotel.

crossing the EC border


As we had ‘won’ time by missing the museums in Winterthur we decided to go and visit the village of Steim am Rhein, something we had planned for the next day. It’s a 20km drive from Schaffhausen, but an interesting drive, not only for the landscape but also for the route which crosses twice each way the border between Switzerland and Germany (actually the European Community border). No border guards or customs officers were in view, and crossing the border is as simple as crossing the street or a wooden bridge across a small river as in the photo.

Stein am Rhein - old city gate


Steim am Rhein was mentioned as a fishing village one thousands years ago, when emperor Heinrich II moved the St. George Abbey to this place (in 1007). It is located at the extremity of the lake Constance (Bodesee) where the course of the Rhine starts towards West gathering strength towards the Rhine falls and then to Basel and Strasbourg (where we shall meet it later in our trip) and then North and West to Germany and the Netherlands.

Rathausplatz


The village is most famous for the houses painted at the exterior, some of the most beautiful in a style which is wide spread in this area of German-speaking Switzerland. Most of them date from the 16th century, although renovations and additions were made in the later periods. The majority of the beautiful buildings are grouped in the Rathausplatz, with the Rathaus building itself at the edge of the square, with the lower store built between 1539 and 1542, with additions from the 18th and 19th centuries.

Rother Ochsen and other painted buildings


The buildings on the left side of the Rathaus include the Roter Ochsen (Red Ox – also hosting the oldest tavern in the village where we had dinner), the Hirschen (stag), Krone (crown), Steinerner Traube (stony grapes), and Sonne (sun) – the names being descriptive for the themes of the paintings on the facades.

Adler and Weisser Adler buildings


On the opposite side are the Adler (eagle) and the Weisser Adler (white eagle) which offers to the viewer the oldest frescoes on the walls of the city, painted in Holbein-esque style between 1520 and 1525.

Venice on the Rhein


The place is said to be very crowded during the days of the pick season, but it was late afternoon when we got there, and the pick season was behind. Our choice to take the vacation at that time of the year proved itself – we avoided crowds, weather was pleasant most of the time, and most of the places were still open and happy yo receive guests (well, Winterthur excepted :-)).

Stein am Rhein and Bodensee at sunset


We took the last photos on the way back to the car, near the bridge at the gates of the city. The tranquility and beauty of the environment made us start to feel the tiredness of the previous night, so we returned to the hotel for a good rest before the second day of the trip.

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An European Vacation / 1 – The Rhine Falls

I am starting a new cycle of travel notes following the itinerary of the trip Liliana and me made in the last days of August and beginning of September this year. This trip started and ended in Zurich, lasted 11 days, and took us through the area in Switzerland North of Zurich, then to the Black Forest in Germany, to Lorraine and Alsace in France and back to Switzerland to Basel and the area around the lake of Gruyeres. Overall 1600 km.

A few words about how we planned for the trip. I always use the green Michelin guides when they are available. In this case I used the Germany and the Alsace, Lorraine, Champagne ones. For Switzerland I did not have a Michelin at hand, but the Rough Guide was an acceptable replacement. For hotels booking I used www.bookings.com – it worked perfectly, as it did in our previous similar trip to Catalunia.

Here we were after an event-less flight to Zurich (well, if you take out the longer than one hour line at the check-in counter at the Ben Gurion airport). The plans for the first day included a visit of the museums in Winterthur – advertised in the guide as some of the best in Switzerland, and the Rhine falls, close to the end-point of our trip in Schaffhausen, were we booked our hotel for the night.

closed for summer vacation

A big disappointment was expecting us in Winterthur however. All museums in the city were closed that week, the last exhibition having wrapped-up during the weekend prior to our arrival. They could have warned us on the Web sites at least 🙁

elevator from the castle to the falls


We had not too many options but to have lunch (in a nice and reasonabled-priced Italian restaurant) and proceed to the next point in the itinerary. The Rhine Falls (Rheinfall in German) are the largest plain waterfalls in Europe. If you come without Niagara falls expectations, they offer you a splendid experience. Just ignore the parking recommendations and drive close to the Rhine falls castle, if not in pick season there are good chances that you will find a parking spot and spare some 10-15 minutes of useless walk each way. Then pay the fee and enter the castle which has little to offer but the access to the falls. Best and fastest way is by using the spectacular glass-walled elevator, and this is how you get closer to the view on the falls.

the Rhine prepares to reach the falls


And here they come. After running under an elegant bridge the Rhine waters seem to gather energy for the falls experience.

the Rhine falls


The view is amazing. At 23m height only they may not compare with the Niagara falls, but the setting with the outskirts of the city of Schaffhausen in the background are truly beautiful. An observation deck completes the viewing experience for those who want to get a closer look …

boat in the mist


… and tourist boats get you until under the falls and let you feel the mist on your own skins.

Rheinfall by Leonhard Trippel - 18th century


We had already read in the guide that the better view may be the one on the opposite shore, by the city. The confirmation was received the next day when we visited the art collection in the Museum zu Allerheiligen Schaffhausen. Half a room in the Switzerland without Switzerland exhibition (I will write about it in a future episode) was dedicated to paintings representing the falls and most of them were made on the other shore. First I remember is one made in the 18th century by the Schaffhausen native artist Leonhard Trippel (1745-1783).

Rhine falls painted by Philipp Hossli - 1916

Next comes the view immortalized by another Swiss artist – Philipp Hoessli in 1916.

Rheinfall mit Kanzel und Springer by Michael Lio - 2005


And here is the 21st century view – from the same shore we visited – of the observation platform (and a jumper in stormy waters!) painted by Michael Lio in 2005.

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Shana Tova

Rosh HaShana – the Jewish New Year is celebrated starting with this Wednesday evening.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HIiPqYUe3Bw

(video source TheSpeedyMedia)

First, here are some basics about the holiday…

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UjlnTh26lyk

(video source birthrightisrael)

… and a less conventional way to celebrate using animation and rap music …

(video source itaihermelin)

… and the shofar blown in an unexpected place …

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZgOmKqob-bA

(video source fivnten)

… and in more traditional one, in one of the few Yiddish films ever made, staring the great cantor Moyshe Oysher …

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hk6X8yGGME

(video source uscompass)

… and for the end – apples and honey for a traditional wish for a sweet New Year!

SHANA TOVA – A Happy New Year, with Peace for Israel and for the whole world, with good health, friendship and joy for everybody!

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Documentar: The British Blues Explosion

Imi plac programele de vara ale canalului franco-german de televiziune ARTE. Este acolo cineva in directia de programe care are aceleasi gusturi muzicale ca mine, care este fascinat de perioada muzicala a anilor 60, cea in care mi-am format gustul muzical cu urechea lipita de radioul din care se auzea vocea lui Cornel Chiriac si muzica pe care acesta o dezvaluia tinerilor din Romania acelor vremuri. Impreuna cu alte perle cum ar fi documentare despre Janis Joplin sau festivalurile pe insula Wight, am vazut acum documentarul lui Philip Priestley despre The British Blues Explosion.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A1FK620bS7A

(video source Radge1965)

Cumpana deceniilor 50 si 60 a insemnat o perioada de schimbare in viata Angliei. Daca anii 50 sunt dominati inca de greutatile perioadei postbelice si ale generatiei care a trecut razboiul, la inceputul anilor 60 se aproprie de maturitate o noua generatie care nu cunoscuse ororile si rigorile celor traite de parinti si care isi cauta identitatea si mijloacele de exprese. Una dintre sursele de inspiratie este muzica americana, in special rock si blues. Mari blusmen cum ar fi Howlin’ Wolf ajung in turneu in Anglia. In sala in care canta acesta s-a aflat in una dintre seri si un tanar pe nume Brian Jones. Greu de crezut pentru cine cunoaste Londra cosmopolita de astazi ca la inceputul anilor 60 existau doar doua magazine de muzica in capitala engleza care importau discuri cu muzica de blues sau jazz americana, si ca daca intalneai un adolescent intr-o statie de metro cu un disc de blues sub brat sanse bune era ca el sa fie Mick Jagger (asa s-au cunoscut zice filmul Brian Jones si Jagger, restul este istorie, adica istoria lui Rolling Stones).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mmdPQp6Jcdk

(video source Hamish500000)

Influentele nu intarzie sa se vada. De la muzica comerciala grupurile de foarte tineri muzicieni englezi evolueaza spre repertoriul american. Iata-i pe The Animals preluand House of the Rising Sun.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NghfjuxvPnw

(video source mariomartino82)

In anii 62-63 grupurile engleze care se orienteaza spre blues devin din ce in ce mai populare, incep sa domine scena cluburilor londoneze si sa faca turnee in toata Anglia. Se impun nu numai prin muzica, dar si printr-un stil de viata, vestimentatie, tunsoare care devin emblematice pentru intreaga lor generatie. Printre cele mai interesante grupuri ale perioadei se afla The Yardbirds, unde canta succesiv Eric Clapton, si apoi Jeff Beck si Jimmy Page.

(video source johngpayne)

Au fost desigur multe formatii interesante rivalitatea cea mai pronuntata a epocii este fara indoiala cea dintre Beatles si Rolling Stones. In iarna dintre 1962 si 1963 Beatles devin deja celebri, in timp ce Stonesii pregatesc in apartamentul din Chelsea al lui Brian Jones campania care in jumatate de an avea sa-i aduca la varful piramidei. Un an mai tarziu Rolling Stones pleaca in turneu in Statele Unite, dar si aici Beatlesii ii devansasera cu cateva luni. Valul de popularitate al rock-ului si blues-ului englez cucereste America, si paradoxal readuce in atentia publicului alb de pe noul continent muzica originala a negrilor care era marginalizata intr-o nisa in America inca incomplet segregata. Formatii precum The Animals folosesc ocazia turneelor lor pentru a-i cauta in orasele indepartate pe adevaratii si originalii bluesmen, pentru a invata de la ei si pentru a canta impreuna cu ei. Se poate spune ca revolutia muzicala engleza, a carei origini stau in blues-ul american se intoarce in America si contribuie la revolutia nu numai muzicala dar si sociala americana din a doua parte a anilor 60.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pzAEtLPSzRg

(video source hitomi1968)

Ultima secventa a filmului preia un fragment din concertul din Hyde Park al Rolling Stones-ilor din 1969. Multe se intamplasera cu Stones, printre care moartea tragica cu numai cateva zile in urma a fondatorului formatiei Brian Jones. Multe se intamplasera si in muzica si cultura intregii lumi. Generatia adolescentilor de la inceputul deceniilor isi impusese stilul muzical si de viata. Libertatea lor in a face muzica a germinat dorinta de libertate si schimbare sociala a generatiei de pe baricadele lui 1968 la Paris, Chicago si Praga. Muzica se schimbase si lumea se schimbase in urma ei.

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Film: L’Armee des Ombres (Jean-Pierre Melville, 1969)

I was writing a while ago that when Quentin Tarantino was making Inglorious Basterds he was not so much making a film about the Second World War and the Holocaust, but more a Tarantino film that happens during the Second World War and happens to have the Holocaust as a subject. Would this be a fair characterization of Jean-Pierre Melville‘s L’Armee des Ombres (Army of Shadows)? Is this merely a Melville film which says more about the director than about the war and the French Resistance?

source www.cinemapassion.com

Well, not really. It is true that L’Armee des Ombres has a very strong Melville touch. Made at the pick of the maturity of the director, it has an amazing familiar look with Le Cercle Rouge made one year later, the gangster story that was shown two weeks ago at the Herzlya Cinematheque, and about which I wrote about on the blog at that time. We are in familiar territory, with the director focusing on the characters and letting his splendid actors all the freedom they need to create great roles. His heroes have their own code of honor, and although we do not know much about who they are and where they come from we are led to recognize and respect their motivation and deeds, even when they may seem questionable on the sale of the accepted morality. There is also shared scenery between the two films – deserted roads and empty streets which seem a visual style mark of Melville.

(video source mongfu37)

And yet, there are more differences than similarities in my opinion. For Melville the Second World War and the Resistance were not just another theme, but a period that he lived through and a cause he participated actively in – to the point that a scene that seems completely benign today with De Gaulle decorating the fighting heroes of the Resistance let to a great outrage from some political circles and critics in a year 1969 when De Gaulle was close to the end of his political career and perceived as a conservative or even ‘reactionary’ president. Making a story about a group of fighters making the hard choices and putting in danger their own lives to do what is maybe today the obvious, but what so few people did in the real history is not just another heroic story about the war. It shows that war means not only risking own life, but also crossing the limits of accepted morality. The code of honor of the characters in this film exceeds the common judgment. While the behavior of the characters in permanent hiding and playing cat-and-mouse games with the Gestapo may remind the behavior of the heroes in the gangster movies of Melville, their motivation is totally different.

(video source luvgod)

The story building in this film is not the best. The underground work of a group of fighters of the Resistance led by Luc Jardie (the actor Paul Meurisse), Philipe Gerbier (Lino Ventura), and Mathilde (Simone Signoret) is followed in the interval of an year, between 1942 and 1943. The plot has many points of discontinuity filled in by off-screen comments, and building the story is not really what seems to have interested Melville. His focus was on the situations, on the permanent tension and danger the characters live in, on the choices that they must make which are never easy – killing a traitor, risking their lives to save an imprisoned comrade, commit suicide or kill their fellows if their lives cannot be saved and endanger the continuation of the fight. There is only one choice which is not questioned – the choice to fight which seems out of doubt the right thing that needs to be done. The magnificent opening scene with the German soldiers parading on Champs Elysees is the moral background for everything that happens afterward. The defeated and humiliated France had to fight back. The question about why so few did the obvious was postponed by Melville for a film that he never got to make.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5D1nfIJ632o

(video source yaknbo)

Beside the opening there are many other memorable scenes in the film – mostly built on the relations between the characters and on the acting of all the actors in the team. Shining over the whole distribution are Lino Ventura and Simone Signoret, two splendid actors belonging to a golden generation of the French cinema who helas is gone now.  Their presence enriches a film which stays in memory for many reasons.

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Monteverdi’s L’Orpheo at Theatre de la Monnaie

Monteverdi’s rendition of the story of Orpheus is a milestone in the evolution of opera, one of the first works that definitely crossed the barrier of the oratorio into a fully defined stage representation. It includes remarkable musical moments, arias and recitatives with fine instrumental backing, it has a clear story line and a duration that makes it fit to modern representations. No wonder it has been part of the repertory of big opera houses for many years, as one of the most representative and most popular pieces of the early baroque style.

(video source ladiszka3)

The version that I have recently seen on the Mezzo TV chain was put on stage at the Theatre de la Monnaie – the opera theater in Bruxelles which has a fascinating history of its own. I hope to have the time to write about it separately in a separate piece on the blog. The musical direction belongs to Rene Jacobs and the main role was sung by Simon Keenlydeside.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3S3glu7Em3s

(video source FILMS7)

It is however the stage direction which is remarkable in this representation. Theatre de la Monnaie has a long tradition of supporting innovative ballet. Maurice Bejart was a ballet master here from 1959 to 1992, and I have seen one remarkable work of the ballet troupe in Tel Aviv a few years ago. This version of the L’orpheo is directed by Trisha Brown, one of the remarkable American choreographer of our times, and the result is as it can be expected a wonderful combination of music and movement, which fills in the recitative and instrumental parts with dance and acrobatics. It’s not an easy task for the performers, as the solo and chorus singers are required to sing and dance to fulfill the vision of a complete performance. Here is one example of the scene where Orpheus tries to cross the gates of the underworld.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YBqVk0kcNcY

(video source votregali)

Luckily I also found on youTube the final scene, with Simon Keenlydeside – the overall concept of music, dance, sets and lights can be well enjoyed in this sequence.

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Carte: Neagu Djuvara – Civilizatii si tipare istorice

Nascut in 1916, Neagu Djuvara este una ditre personalitatile cele mai interesante ale istoriografiei romanesti a ultimelor decenii. L-am vazut acum aproximativ un an intr-un interviu televizat si nu am putut sa nu fiu cucerit de acuitatea discursului, claritatea si logica ideilor si farmecul de causeur. Un interviu si mai recent in Romania Literara http://www.romlit.ro/neagu_djuvara_-_cred_intr-o_forta_care_ordoneaza_care_ma_vede_si_la_care_ma_rog confirma aceasta impresie, si ofera in plus amanunte relevante despre crezul si inamplarile vietii acestei personalitati incitante. Inceputul formatiei sale intelectuale se situeaza in perioada interbelica, cand foarte tanarul Djuvara cade si el ca si multi alti intelectuali romani sub mirajul ideilor de extrema dreapta. Izbucnirea razboiului ii prilejuieste experienta militara pe frontul de Rasarit, iar apoi, dupa ce este ranit inceputul unei cariere la Ministerul de Externe, unde sansa intalnirii unei personalitati care avea sa-i influenteze cursul vietii ii schimba ideile in directia unei aderente nedezmintite de atunci la principiile democratiei si pluralismului. Dupa 1944 alege sa ramana in Occident si devine una dintre personalitatile de seama ale exilului politic si intelectual romanesc. Anii 70 si 80 si-i petrece in Africa in calitate de consilier al ministerului de externe al Nigerului. Se intoarce in Romania dupa 1989, reintrand in mod firesc in centrul disputelor istorice si intelectuale ale tarii.

Civilizatii si tipare istorice este o reeditare a tezei de doctorat pe care Neagu Djuvara a scris-o la inceputul anilor 70 sub indrumarea lui Raymond Aron. Este probabil cartea cea mai importanta a istoricului, cea care defineste filozofia sa istorica si ideile dominante ale altor lucrari ale sale, inclusiv Războiul de șaptezeci și șapte de ani si premizele hegemoniei americane aparuta anul trecut, o analiza a situatiei politice contemporane in lumina istoriei secolului 20, carte care isi asteapta in biblioteca mea personala randul de a fi citita.

Civilizatii si tipare istorice este o carte de istorie comparata a civilizatiilor, care incearca sa identifice si sa descrie tipare repetitive in nasterea, evolutia si sfarsitul acestora, si de aici concluzii in legatura cu prezentul si viitorul civilizatiei noastre occidentale. In mare masura textul scris in anii 70 este pastrat ca atare, cu exceptia unor rare note si insertii de text – deci nu este vorba despre o versiune actualizata, ci mai degraba un instantaneu al gandirii istoricului la data scrierii tezei sale de doctorat. In mod firesc, Djuvara porneste de la definirea termenului de civilizatie, ca unitate fundamentala a dezvoltarii istorice, cu caracteristici majore care sunt aria geografica intinsa, unitatea in mod de viata si tehnologie, si dezvoltarea in faze nerepetitive, caracteristici care pot fi identificate in masura mai mult sau mai putin clara la toate civilizatile enumerate de autor si analizate in carte. Fazele de dezvoltare mentionate ar fi in ordine: faza larvara (sau pre-istoria fiecareia dintre civilizatii), faza de formare, faza de inflorire, faza luptei pentru hegemonie (sau a regatelor combatante), si faza imperiala in care apare scleroza si destramarea civilizatiei.

Neagu Djuvara - sursa badpolitics.ro

Se poate spune ca cartea are o structura matriciala, dupa introducerea definitiilor de baza urmand o trecere in revista a principalelor civilizatii din evolutia istorica a omenirii, delimitarea lor fiind facuta conform conceptelor definite in introducere. Sunt trecute in revista civilizatiile egipteana, babiloneana, cretana, elenica sau greco-romana, bizantina, occidentala, araba sau islamica, indiana, chineza sau extrem-orientala, si precolumbiana. Gradul de analiza in aceasta prima sectiune numita Civilizatiile care ocupa cam jumatate din cele peste 550 de pagini ale cartii este diferit – este vadit faptul ca din motive obiective (existenta informatiei istorice) sau subiective sunt cercetate in profunzime mai ales civilizatiile majore ale zonei europeene si asiatice. Autorul face in permanenta efortul de a-si valida clasificarile in raport cu fiecare civilizatie in parte, si pregateste terenul pentru partea a doua a cartii in care va extrage elementele comune si va directiona rationamentul spre concluziile pe care doreste sa le insufle cititorului. Nu peste tot categorizarea functioneza perfect, definirea civilizatiei cretane alaturi de cea egipteana si babiloneana pe mine nu m-a convins, la fel mi se pare o lacuna limitarea civilizatiei islamice la rasarit la subcontinentul indian, ignorand penetrarea acesteia in restul Asiei si in parte din Africa. Intreg continentul african de altfel cu exceptia vaii Nilului ai a Magrebului pare a fi ignorat din aceasta revista a civilizatiilor, straniu pentru un autor care a petrecut multi ani din viata in Africa.  Oricum, lectura acestei sectiuni a cartii are multe pasaje fascinante pentru amatorul de istorie si in special cel cu rezonanta si interes la aspectele culturale ale istoriei. Ca exemple din multele astfel de pasaje as mentiona descrierea rolului unificator al limbilor de circulatie internationala in diferitele culturi, analiza iconografiei ruse si influenta meditaraneana in arta ruso-ortodoxa, sau descrierea influentei sclerotice a colonizarii spaniole asupra metropolei in pofida bogatiilor materiale acumulate de imperiu. Abordarea lui Djuvara refuza tiparele acceptate ale impartirii istorice in epoci, nu a existat o singura Renastere, ci una sau in unele cazuri doua renasteri in cadrul fiecareia dintre culturi, clasele sociale nu au in precum epocile istorice un caracter global ci ele se dezvolta in mod asincron in cadrul fiecareia dintre civilizatii. Alta caracteristica diferita a abordarii lui Djuvara este refuzul de a pune religia in centrul evolutiei istorice a civilizatiilor si asta desi factorul spiritual pare avea in conceptia sa prioritate in raport cu cel economic. Observand faptul incontestabil ca religiile ‘revolutionare’ apar in momente de criza ale civilizatiei, Djuvara considera aceasta a fi mai degraba efect si simptom decat cauza a rasturnarilor sociale din care face parte evolutia elementului religios. Foarte discutabila mi se pare caracterizarea aparent negativa a evolutiei culturii occidentale la inceputul secolului 20, Djuvara parand sa considere efervescenta artistica si stiintifica a primelor decenii ale veacului trecut ca un semn de criza si nu ca o posibila noua renastere, motor al progresului tehnic si spiritual in a doua parte a secolului.

A doua parte a cartii numite Fenomene recurente roteste matricea si abordeaza sintetic elementele comune ale civilizatiilor trecute in revista pana atunci. Sunt analizate dimensiunile spatiale si temporale ale civilizatiilor, contactele in timp (indirecte) si in spatiu (confruntari directe) dintre civilizatii, si etapele comune care caracterizeaza nasterea, cresterea, inflorirea si dezagregarea culturilor. De aici demonstratia se indreapta spre concluziile finale, si analiza lor in sine are un caracter istoric deosebit de interesant, tinand cont de faptul ca cartea este scrisa cu vreo 20 de ani inainte de cadera sistemului comunist. La nivelul anilor 70 el considera civilizatia occidentala ca dominanta, si aflata spre sfarsitul perioadei ‘regatelor combatante’, in care doar doua ‘regate’ – America si URSS ramasesera sa se confrunte. In comunism Djuvara vede o ideologie eretica a civilizatiei occidentale.Rusia de dupa secolul 18 si URSS sunt considerate ca facand parte din civilizatia occidentala, intr-un fenomen de aculturalizare care o face sa tranzitioneze dinspre Bizant spre vest. Daca pronosticul sau in legatura cu regatul castigator s-a dovedit a fi corect, nici scala temporala sugerata si nici caracterizarea perioadei urmatoare (cateva secole de Pax Americana) nu par sa se potriveasca. Greu era de pronosticat in anii 70 aparitia Internetului si revolutia pe care aceasta tehnologie de comunicare o va aduce in globalizarea si democratizarea informatiei si in relatiile inter-umane. Aici cred ca una dintre teoriile sale (tehnologia nu este suficienta, trebuie sa exista o motivatie si energie in cadrul civilizatiei pentru a o pune in valoare) este pusa la incercare. Daca renasterea Chinei este prevazuta in anii 70 ca o posibilitate, castigul spectaculos de influenta al Islamului nu este prevazut, si nici renasterea Indiei. In general, secolul 21 pare a se contura mai mult ca o sume multipolara, in care globalizarea si interactiunea economica nu mai fac posibila o dominatie imperiala monolitica precum cea descrisa in tiparele lui Djuvara. Aparuta intre analizele Hannei Arendt despre originile totalitarismului si teoria conflictului intre civilizatii expusa de Huntington la finele razboiului rece, teza lui Djuvara nu da importanta ideologiilor si ignora atitudinea fata de valorile democratice ca o componenta a evolutiei civilizatiilor. Cu toate ca incearca sa dea sens si structura evenimentelor contemporaneitatii abordarea autorului este cea a unui istoric si nu a unui politilog. Poate ca totusi este bine de examinat si cartea sa mai noua pentru a vedea in ce masura istoricul si-a revizuit teoriile in lumina experientei istorice traite in ultimele tei-patru decenii. Cel putin una dintre asertiunile sale preferate pare sa se fi transformat in realitate in timpul scurs de la aparitia cartii prin alegerea ‘perifericului’ Obama ca presedinte al ‘imperiului american’.

Inchei cu doua citate din ultimul capitol al cartii care mi se par concludente dupa aceasta lectura consistenta si interesanta. Respingand determinismul istoric si utopia progresului permanent Djuvara scrie:

La inceputul secolului al XX-lea, s-ar fi putut da drept sigur faptul ca lumea, in ansamblu, a atins un grad mai mare de “omenie”. Astazi ne putem indoi. … in virtutea carui criteriu superior putem afirma ca pentru om si soarta lui este mai important sa produca cativa barili de petrol in plus decat sa-si faca rugaciunea catre Allah de cinci ori pe zi si sa respecte postul Ramadanului?’ (pag. 448-449).

Iar in final, dupa ce proroceste ca daca tiparele istorice sunt corecte atunci civilizatia occidentala este atinsa de un grad de oboseala psihologica care semnaleaza inceputul destramarii sale, Neagu Djuvara conclude:

Celor pe care o astfel de perspectiva ii umple de groaza li se poate raspunde ca daca aproprierea unui nou crepuscul al zeilor este de temut, putem fi la fel de siguri ca zorile se vor ridica mai tarziu peste o noua civilizatie, mai nobila si mai luminoasa. Ar fi bine ca generatiile care se nasc sa se pregateasca pentru aceste epoci sumbre, mangaindu-se cu gandul ca ele comporta intotdeauna, in mijlocul sfasaierilor, al ruinelor si al deznadejdii, acele mari elanuri sufletesti vestitoare de vremuri noi. (pag. 469)

S-ar putea detecta o contradictie intre cele doua citate. Ultimul totusi permite o incheiere mai optimista a studiului, cel putin la scara istorica.

———

Un coleg de pe o lista internetica mi-a semnalat o conferinta a lui Djuvara din 2009 in care acesta isi explica teoria si incearca sa o aplice istoriei Romaniei si situatiei internationale actuale:

http://www.erudio.ro/ro/conferinte/neagu_djuvara_video.shtml

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