Erica Hoffer – A Trip to South India

India is one of those places I dream to visit one day, but I am not sure I will ever get to. I have read a lot about this fabulous country and I know it’s just a drop in a sea of knowledge about a huge country and a great civilization. In the meantime my friend Erica Hoffer is at her second visit to India, and this time she has traveled to the South of the sub-continent. Here are her travel notes and a few of the photos she made during her trip.

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I cannot explain why I was always so attracted by India. Maybe the gracious silhouettes of the sari-dressed women, the orgy of strong colors, the luxuriant vegetation, the wealth of smells (not all pleasant though) and tastes quite unusual for our taste buds, all these gave, in my eyes, an irresistible aura to this country (subcontinent). Fascination with India is strong among Israeli youngsters. According to Israeli and Indian officials, between 40,000 and 60,000 young Israelis have either permanently moved or established long-term residence in India.

Attracted and curious to check by myself what might be the source of this attraction I arranged for myself and three companions an “independent'” trip to South India. “Independent” means not organized with group, guide and bus but organized by us with public transportation or driver+car. Why south and not the more travelled north? It is believed that south India is less poor, beggars less persistent, not many people living on the street. Possible, I could not compare.

So, after some research in many on-line tourist guides, blogs and brochures and frantic emailing with Kamu, the owner of a company providing cars with driver, highly recommended by folks from the “Lametayel” site I succeeded to plan a two week tour to include visits to major temples in Tamil Nadu, towns, places of natural beauty. We started our trip in Chennai (Madras), went south in Tamil Nadu to visit Mahabalipuram, Pondicherry, Tanjavur, Madurai for temples. Then the Arabian Sea resort of Varkala, the Backwater canals of Kerala, Cochin for its Jewish connection, Munar and Otti for the gorgeous sights of tea plantations and Mysore famous for the Palace, the silks, spices, sandalwood. We were to return to Mumbai from Bengalore where our trip with car and driver was to end.

I will not make her a day to day report of this trip, but rather tell about the things that impressed me most, both in a positive and also in a negative way

Strong for the senses: colors, smells. Here everything is colorful. Have a look at the saris: first picture at the caves in Mahabalipuram

Above: wedding at the Madurai temple:

Below: Colored incense at the Mysore market:

Waiting in line at the Mysore temple to receive holy water from the priest:

Smells:

Spices: cumin, cardamom, curry are prevalent. But garbage is everywhere: along the roads, in every free space. I am not sure that removing garbage is at all possible in a country of….million. Somehow it does not seem to disturb. Here, for example at the entrance of a very famous temple:

Among praying people:

Sometimes we were surprised to enter bad smelling hotel lobbies but to find exceptional nice rooms. So, in India, do not judge a place according to its smell!!

The street

Let’s state one simple fact: beside in big cities, there are no sidewalks in Indian cities.

What one calls street is a paved portion on which cars, buses, rikshas, trucks, bicycles, cows and people compete. Priority is achieved by honking; the louder is that to whom priority is given. On both sides of this chaotic moving portion there are broad strips of earth covered by parked cars and garbage. People move on the narrow interface between the earth strip and the moving portion. It is easier to go on the paved side and usually one does not get hit by a vehicle. Given the chaotic movement on the pavement (we found ourselves many times facing cars coming from the opposite direction), the number of accidents we encountered was very low.

Here are two photos taken from our car in Mahabalibupuram:

In big cities there are sidewalks, but they are either occupied by street vendors or in very bad condition.

For example in Mumbai, in the fashionable Colaba neighborhood:

There are reparations though:

But it does not stay for long:

Sometimes, it is not easy to to walk on sidewalks. Then you have to buy:

Vegetation is lush and this is what makes the places so attractive.

For example the garden of a hotel in Mahabalibupuram:

Or the picturesque Backwater canals in Kerala:

The Indians

Trying as much as possible to avoid generalizations, one cannot deny the overall impression of gentle, willing to help, good humored people. Of course there where taxi drivers who cheated, but the majority of locals we dealt with were hard-working and extremely pleasant persons.

We were mostly impressed by our driver, Khartik , who was both our mother and

father and helped each time when something happened to one of us. His driving skills were unbelievable.

When talking with Indians we observed they did a quite unusual movement of their head (inclining the head to both sides, a few times to each direction). First we sought it must be a negative answer to our question, but then it appeared like a sign they were thinking what answer to give.

Places that impressed me most:

The Meenakshi Temple in Madurai

The tea plantations in Munar. I could not believe how beautiful tea plantations can be:

The old synagogue in Kochin:

The Palace in Mysore:

The palace that belonged to the Wodeyar kings was first built in the 14th century. It was demolished and constructed multiple times. The current palace construction was completed in 1912 and expanded later around 1940.

A virtual tour of the whole palace can be found at

http://www.mysorepalace.tv/360_Eng/index.html

Having in view the strict prohibition of taking pictures inside the palace, this site provides the only opportunity to see the interior of the palace.

We did not see the illuminated palace as shown above; the illumination is only on Sundays, but I place the photo as a closing view of glorious India.

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Carte: O.Nimigean – Radacina de bucsau

O.Nimigean nu intentioneaza sa-si crute cititorii originalului sau roman ‘Radacina de bucsau’. Chiar de la titlu cititorii mai putin avizati (si eu ma aflu printre ei) sunt trimisi la dictionare pentru a afla ce este bucsaul si titlul insusi ramane o enigma chiar si dupa terminarea lecturii. Tema nu este nici ea usoara – ‘Radacina de bucsau’ este o sumare a multora dintre aspectele sordide si derizorii ale realitatii romanesti din ultimele doua decenii. Stilul si limbajul folosit de autor il pun tot timpul la incercare pe cititor, schimbandu-se de la paragraf la paragraf, de la episod la episod. Si totusi, impresia de ansamblu este cea a unei creatii inchegate si a unei viziuni complexe, care evita conventionalismul si nu face niciun fel de rabat unei realitati ostile.

Personajul principal al cartii pe nume Liviu este un intelectual ratat si invins complet de un sistem pe care il dispretuieste. Infrangerea sa se datoreaza nu atat refuzului de a face compromisuri cat mai ales lehamitei de a se confrunta cu o societate in care iluziile schimbarii spre democratie au fost complet spulberate: “M-am saturat! Am obosit sa ma lupt cu comunistii astia reconditionati, mi-e greata de lumea asta mizerabila, in care vechii securisti fac pe mai departe jocurile, putrezi de bogati, mi se apleaca de Romanica mea de cacat, plina de puliticieni, afutceristi, si cacademicieni, de elite inciolanate, …” (pag. 50). Esecul social si  inadaptabilitatea personajului atrag dupa ele si esecul personal. Relatia si casnicia cu Ioana (zisa si Zelda) se destrama sub presiunea multipla a crizei de maturizare a unui cuplu fara copii, a presiunii economice si a lipsei de perspectiva sociala. “Ma ingrozea s-o vad ca sufera pentru esecul indeniabil al viitorului nostru mic burghez. N-o sa avem niciodata o casa adevarata, n-o sa avem niciodata o pozitie sociala onorabila, n-o sa ne facem vacantele nici macar in Antalya – ce Antalya?! nici macar la Mamaia! – n-o sa ne putem permite aia si aia si aia, sintem niste amarasteni si niste ratati.” (pag. 51) Actiunea cartii inceputa practic dupa destramarea cuplului in urma unei lamentabile tentative de adulter se desfasoara vreme indelungata sub semnul tanjirii dupa reintoarcere, a cautarii unui sentiment pur si a unei relatii inglodate sub o realitate triviala. Esecul este insa previzibil din start.

Relatia principala a cartii este insa cea intre autor si mama sa, a carei imbolnavire il readuce in satul natal, undeva la cumpana intre Bucovina si Maramures. Gospodaria in semi-paragina, casa copilariei in care mai staruie inca amintirea tatalui rapus de boala cu multi ani inainte, confruntarea cu boala care se dovedeste din ce in ce mai serioasa a mamei il smulg pe intelectualul dezorientat care isi pierduse locul si rostul odata cu destramarea casniciei dintr-o existenta ambigua intr-o alta realitate, care se dovedeste a fi cu nimic mai usoara, si care se impleteste in mod bizar cu urmele trecutului si ale radacinilor pierdute. Sunt in carte cateva scene de un naturalism extrem, in care relatia creata cu mare adancime psihologica dintre fiu si mama capata o dimensiune facuta posibila numai datorita unor conditii sociale extreme. Exceptionale sunt episoadele in care este descrisa treptat degradarea starii sanatatii mamei si confruntarea celor doua personaje – unul cu puterile vlaguite de boala, celalalt nesigur psihologic si inadaptat social – cu tarele sistemul medical subfinantat, blazat si erodat si cu personajele care il populeaza – toate alcatuind un mozaic al unei realitati in care franturi de omenie se combina cu indiferenta, in care mai toata lumea pare sa fie in deriva sau la limita intr-o constanta lupta pentru supravietuire. Daca aceasta carte ar fi precedat filmul ‘Moartea domnului Lazarescu’ as fi spus ca filmul a fost influentat de carte, asa posibil ca influenta sa fie inversa, sau pur si simplu si fimul si cartea sa se traga din aceiasi realitate bine cunoscuta milioanelor de romani. La fel de bine caracterizate sunt si descrierile satului natal al eroului si al mamei sale. Spatiul care in alte timpuri era pastrator al originalitatii si spiritualitatii Romaniei este descris ca un loc al dezolarii si paraginei, diluat social si demografic prin plecarea in strainataturi unei intregi generatii in cautarea rostului si asigurarea supravietuirii materiale.

O. Nimigean

Stilul este personajul si aceasta axioma literara este reflectata in discursul complicat al personajului principal al acestei carti povestite la persoana intai. Este modul de a vorbi si de a gandi al unui intelectual roman de formatie umanista, educat in anii de sfarsit ai regimului comunist, pentru care limbajul bogat si uneori cautat cuprinde in aceeasi fraza sau in propozitii vecine afirmatia si contrariul sau, indoiala si scepticismul fata de observatia imediata a vietii reale in spatele careia individul trebuie sa caute sensul ascuns si de cele mai multe ori ostil. Imposibilitatea adaptarii este reflectata si in limbaj, si nu numai in greutatea de a accepta realitatea asa cum este ea, ci si ca o reflectie a inutilitatii unei educatii redusa la neputinta de o schimbare sociala care rastoarna complet sistemele de referinta.

Versatilitatea scrisului lui O. Nimigean sustine evolutia psiholgica a personajelor si adauga o linie paralela de interes care dubleaza placerea lecturii. Autorul are precedente in poezie, proza si publicistica si fiecare dintre acestea influenteaza fragmente diferite din tesatura stilistica a romanului. In acelasi capitol putem gasi insiruite sau intercalate fragmente de poezie pura (in special in evocarile nostalgice ale iubirii pierdute si a tanjirii dupa o imposibila intoarcere), de analiza politica lucida, de satira (vezi episodul invadarii apartamentului cuplului de eroi de catre sobolani, o posibila metafora a marasmului social), sau chiar nuante de pornografie. Uneori stilul este adaptat modului de gandire al personajului ca in scena conferintei, in care betia de cuvinte si pretiozitatea discursului creaza senzatia de lipsa de claritate a gandirii intelectualului ratat care nu isi gaseste tinta si nu isi poate impune reperele unei realitati cu care nu rezoneaza. O galerie de personaje secundare sustin si amplifica figura centrala a cartii. Artemiu – prietenul care a refuzat colaborarea cu Securitatea sau cel putin asa povesteste dar a acceptat compromisul cu noua societate – sau preotul Sincai poti fi vazuti ca alternative ale evolutiei personajului principal, posibile traiectorii alternative celei alese (voluntar sau nu) de catre eroul cartii. Este esecul personajelor un esec absolut? Nu sunt sigur, caci finalul destul de ambiguu al cartii il plaseaza si pe eroul principal si pe mama sa intr-o aparenta recuperare si impacare cu soarta. Nimic nu este insa sigur in universul creat de O. Nimigean in ‘Radacina de bucsau’ – mai ales cand vestile par a fi oarecum bune.

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Tourist in Romania / 5 – The Varatic Monastery

The morning of the second day of our trip started with clear skies and pleasant temperatures – ideal weather conditions for the tour of the monasteries in the Neamt area that we were planning for that day.

Monasteries, Hermitages and Churches in the Neamt County - source www.neamt.ro

Before I get into the details of our first stop let me point to a source of information about the religious monuments of the area that is very useful, but … you need to be able to read Romanian in order to understand the information stored there – although there are also a number of beautiful photos – http://www.neamt.ro/Info_utile/Manastiri/

Varatic - the entrance

For my non-Romanian friends I owe a few words of explanation. Monasteries played a crucial role in the history of the Romanian territories since the Middle Ages until the contemporaneity – maybe more than in the history and life of the majority of other Christian nations. They were spiritual centers and cultural centers and centers of national resistance against foreign occupiers and centers of political resistance against dictatorships.

the woodden gate

For our group of good friends of a life these places had even more significance. These were some of the objectives which we traveled with a camping tent on our backs as students, this was the place where some of our good friends got married. It was a trip of nostalgic meeting with the past of our youth, and for us a new encounter with the realities of new Romania.

the fountain and the church

The Varatic (Varatec) monastery is a relatively new one, the more modest hermitage that started at this place at the end of the 18th century was developed into one of the most important nuns monasteries in Moldova during the first decades of the 19th century, being declared an independent monastery under voievode (prince) Mihail Sturdza in 1839. Most of the building of the two-towered church and the surrounding complex was executed around 1808  – 1815. The events of the Greek revolt and Russian occupation around 1821 stopped the building for a while, but the works were completed in the coming two decades. While a big fire destroyed the buildings in 1900 and led to the reconstruction, the current architectural structure keeps the original 19th century design.

inside the church - the nave

The big church in the center of the monastery is dedicated to the Assumption of Saint Mary. As in many Moldavian churches the entry is from a veranda which is closed in this place, followed by a narthex and the nave. The dedication inscription reads:

La anul 1808 s-au zidit această biserică ce să prăznuieşte hramul Adormirea Maicii Domnului prin osteneala Sfin. sale a pre. cuvi. Părintelui Iosif Duhovnicul şi a stariţei Olimpiadii, iar cei întâi ctitori au fost maicile din acest locaş. Al doilea mari ctitori au fost Doamna Elenco Paladi, care au dăruit 3 moşii şi maica Elisabeta Balş au dăruit moşia Vultureşti, maica Safta Brâncoveanu au hărăzit moşiile Osica şi Vlădulenii cu mai multe îndatoriri în testamentul său, iar celelalte moşii, vii şi acarete ce au dăruit şi alţi ctitori sunt scrisă în cartea vieţii spre vecinica lor pomenire. 1841, octomvrii 20.

In 1808 they built this church dedicated to the Assumption through the trouble of pious Father Confessor and Abbot Iosif the Confessor and superior nun Olimpiadii who were the first founders of this place. The second major builders were Mrs. Elenco Paladi that brought three estates and mother Elizabeth had given the estate Vultureşti Bals, mother Safta Brâncoveanu estates were destined Osica Vlădulenii with more duties and in her will and other estates, vineyards and outbuilding were donated and other founders are written in the book of life to their memory be eternal. 1841, October 20.

Mother of God Empress Icon

Two impressive icons of the Savior and of Mother of God dominated the small narthex.

pulpit

Most of the painting in the church was originally painted around 1841 by D. Ioan, and then renovated and extended around 1882 by T. Iliescu – two local painters which were both skilled and following the rules of the Christian Orthodox religious painting in the area.

columned veranda

We were well beyond the peak tourist season, and we could enjoy the silence of this place (and the other that we visited) recuperated shortly after the rush and the crowds were gone.

entry at the monastery museum

We also started to observe what will become more and more evident as we added objectives to our tour of the churches, hermitages and monasteries. Romania freed from the Communist rule is undergoing a religious renaissance, and this is felt especially in the Christian Orthodox churches. The old monuments that were – at least part of them – neglected and lacked funds for maintenance during the Communist rule, when religion was at best tolerated, were now in course or after renovation. Life was back in places where religious activity ceased or was hardly maintained during the half century of atheistic dictatorship. The monastery of Varatic today hosts 450 nuns and sisters and five active priests. They maintain not only the spiritual life but also a flourishing micro-economic life with gardening, fruit trees and animals growing, and traditional crafts like weaving and carpets manufacturing.

'troitza'

While the museum hosts a consistent collection of church objects mostly from the past centuries there are new works of art, especially wood carving that decorate the beautiful garden of the monastery.

Ion Jalea - statue of Safta Brancoveanu

The most impressive work of hard in the garden however dates back from 1935 and belongs to one of the important Romanian sculptors of the past century – Ion Jalea. This is the portrait of Safta Brancoveanu, one of the first mother superiors of the place, descendant of a well known family of princes with great contributions in the history of the Romanian principalities.

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Sidney Lumet (1924 – 2011)

A black day in the history of cinema. In the morning I learned about the death of the Romanian film critic Alex Leo Serban, now the news come about the passing away of Sidney Lumet.

source http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0001486/

Let us remember some of his most famous films:

(video source oldpete22)

12 Angry Men was the ultimate court drama, and a homage to the power of justice and will of the individual facing the system.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W4HvvzbutLc

(video source SalveQuintus)

Long Day’s Journey into Night adapted from Eugene O’Neill’s play earned Katharine Hepburn an Oscar nomination.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LtTRYnsDH8Q

(video source Buzzati)

Serpico is one of the best cop stories filmed in New York, and one of Al Pacino’s greatest roles.

(video source jirluin)

Murder on the Orient Express is one of the best Hercule Poirot movies I have seen.

(video source flannagan11)

Network amazes until today as the sharpest and most accurate satire of the TV industry.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Jhrxn7QVDc

(video source THINKFilmNY)

He was still at full creative power when he made his last film Before the Devil Knows You’re Dead.

His last one? Hard to believe.

As a friend wrote at the news of the two important film personalities – they are gone, but the world is richer because they were here.

Be their memory blessed!

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Alex Leo Serban (1959 – 2011)

Cand la inceput de deceniu cinematografia romaneasca incepuse sa dea semne de renastere am inceput sa caut pe Internet vesti si cronici pentru a urmari si intelege aceste fenomen. Imediat mi-a sarit in ochi semnatura lui Alex Leo Serban, un critic in a carui voce clara si limpede, in eruditie dar mai ales in pasiunea pentru film regaseam parca ceva din flacara pe care mi-o sadise si mie in suflet pentru totdeauna cronicile lui D.I. Suchianu citite in Romania Literara a adolescentei mele.

Mai tarziu i-am comandat, mi-a parvenit si am citit aproape pe nerasuflate cartea sa ‘4 decenii, 3 ani si 2 luni cu filmul romanesc’ despre care am scris apoi aici pe blog si pe filme-carti.ro. Nu mica mi-a fost surpriza cand la cateva ore dupa ce postasem pe blog am primit la rubrica de comentarii o nota de multumire in care el, faimosul critic imi multumea mie, anonimul blogger pentru randurile scrise de mine.

Iti multumesc, Alex Leo Serban pentru cele faptuite de tine prin scrisele tale, pentru contributia adusa renasterii cinematografiei romanesti, pentru sadirea si mentinerea flacarii pasiunii pentru cinema in mintea si sufletele multora dintre noi.

Fie-ti memoria binecuvantata.

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Jazz: Meg Okura in Tel Aviv

When I saw that the program of the 6th evening in this season of the Hot Jazz series at the Tel Aviv Museum of Art included violinist Meg Okura I knew that it would be an interesting evening. I did not know that at some moments it will touch magic.

(video source mcarikn)

I love jazz violin and the biography of Meg Okura offers a lot of hints that she makes interesting music. She is born in Japan in 1973 and lives in New York City. She leads the Pan Asian Chamber Jazz Ensemble and plays besides violin a traditional Japanese instrument named erhu – some details about it can be found at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ehru. She graduated the Julliard school and was a featured violinist with Cirque du Soleil. She has a two and a half months daughter. This is her first visit in Israel and the concert last night was open by a version of Mussorgski’s Paintings in an Exhibition – the same piece as in the youTube version above.

(video source mcarikn)

Here she is with another classical piece – a Nocturne by Chopin. The combination between classical music and jazz brought her together with Israeli pianist Eric Niceberg with whom she works for a number of years. While the first part of the concert featured famous classical tunes in jazz arrangements, the second one took jazz standards by artists like Oscar Peterson and Chick Corea and packed them in classical arrangements for violin followed by the jazz interpretation of the band. Niceberg is a gifted pianist, his sound fills the air and envelops the listener in a romantic mood. Avri Borochov had some fine moments at bass, with unexpected sparkles of humor. Aviv Cohen at drums – a little boring to my taste – completed the band. The star of the night was however without any doubt Meg Okura, with moments of passion and deep feeling that raised towards the peaks. There was only one Japanese piece (dedicated to the memory of the victims of the earthquake and tsunami) whose title translates if I got it right Night over the Castle and this was maybe the best moment in an evening of jazz which left nobody in the audience indifferent.



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Gica Manescu – Vacante iesene in copilarie (3)

Gica Manescu ofera cititorilor blogului episodul final al amintirilor sale din vacantele iesene ale copilariei. Inca odata ii  multumesc pentru permisiunea de a prelua aceste fragmente din memoriile sale si il astept cu alte povesti din sacul sau cu amintiri.

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Asa am petrecut vacantele de Pasti in casa bunicilor mei din Iasi. Spre sfarsit, cu vreo 5 zile inainte de intoarcerea acasa, venea si tata. Am fost patru ani la rand. Cand eram in clasa IV-a, am calatorit in compartiment cu profesorul meu de ebraica si de Istorie a evreilor, domnul Naihin, insotit de sotie si un bebelus. Plecau la Chisinau, de unde erau originari. N-a ramas multa vreme la Focsani. L-a inlocuit domnul Derbarimdigher pe care l-am avut si la orele suplimentaere in liceu, in locul orelor de religie ale coleglior crestini. Numai ca noi veneam doua ore dupa amiaza.

Am fost foarte emotionat. Eram calator ca si dascalul meu. Dar se platea doar jumtate din pretul biletului. El a vrut sa se laude si a inceput cu mine, o conversatie, destul de usoara, in limba stramosilor nostri. Am reusit cu succes si mama a fost mai mandra ca alte dati. Rusine cu noi, copiii, nu ii era.

Revin la zilele mele iesene.

Auzeam, chiar din casa, un strigat, ca “mermur” si nu stiam cine si ce striga. Am iesit pe balcon si am vazut un  barbat cu o cobilita pe umeri, la care atarnau doua cazanele. Am intrat in vorba cu el, am coborat treptele si el vindea “mere murate“. Nu stiam ce gust au si am cumparat doua bucati. Am urcat repede  si am coborat, tinand in  mana o farfurie adanca. Mere, potrivite ca marime, cu coaja nu foarte subtire, cu miezul moale si gust dulce-acrisor. Nu poate fi clasat in randul “delicateselor“. Nici nu m-a satisfacut  in placerea gustativa, ca pistilul.

Les Halles in Paris - sursa theworldwidewine.com

In zilele de joi, bunica, cu o poseta in care ingramadise niste bani, o pornea de dimineata la Hala. Era, si poate mai este, pe strada Anastasie Panu, nu departe de noi.  Cu totii stim ce e “Hala“ (in Israel e painea alba, pentru sambata si sarbatori, afara de Pesah). O stim , cei care au locuit sau locuiesc in Bucuresti, ca “Halele Obor”, o stiu cei care  le-au vizitat la Paris “les Halles“ si asemanatoare in multe orase in lume.

Dupa cateva ore, bunica obosita si uneori cu batista stergandu-si fruntea a urcat treptele, urmata de un barbat care cara una cos cu diverse produse  alimentare. Le-a depus in bucatarie si a coborat. Langa scara era un  carut incarcat cu niste cutii, tot cu alimente. Era o programare pentru necesarul gosdpodariei, timp de o saptamana, in afara celor zilnice, cumparate in jur (paine, lapte, zahar, s.a).

O nostimada pentru mine erau  cele intamplate uneori dimineata. Stateam cu bunicii si prin  fata ferestrelor trecea spre WC-ul din fundul balconului domnul Goldner, proprietarul si vecinul de apartamet. Un om instarit, cu alura de boier, purta o jacheta din catifea cu fireturi. Bunicul, privea catre noi, si spunea in idish :”trece domnul G. imbracat cu hainuta de WC“. Ce sa stie el de acestea? Mama mi-a tradus si explicat si imi venea sa rad. El nu spusese unde se duce, ci pentru ce.

sursa http://www.thedailygreen.com

Mancam 7 zile acea ”paine nedospita“, azima, pasca. O rontaiala a ceva fara gust, dar care, ca semintele de dovleac sau floarea soarelui, nu te lasa pana nu le termini. Dimineata, bucati mici le puneam in bautura fierbinte – lapte,  cacao. Dar la pranz si cina? Cum sa savurezi sosul unor bucate daca n-ai si un miez de paine? Se faceau chiftele, delicioase – din cartofi sau din faina de pasca – “latchis “. Si in prezent tot asa. Traditia nu s-a schimbat. Se parea ca ne e foame mai mare si am manca ceva. Era simplu. In bucatarie, pe o masa, era pasca si intr-o oala de tuci, oua fierte, tari. Intram, luam un ou, il curatam si cu putina sare si pasca, il mancam lent sa nu se termine.  Nu aveam voie sa mananc doua oua. Doar era un procedeu aproape zilnic. Nu era recomandat, mai ales pentru un copil.

In ultima seara de sarbatoare, dupa ce apunea soarele si se termina, era o fuga pana la grecul, brutarul din apropiere unde se cumpara painea abia scoasa din cuptor. Pana acasa, coltul era deja inghitit. Ca in Tel Aviv, la Abulafia. Brutaria imi era cunoscuta, acolo  imi cumparam covrigii cu susan, placinta cu branza si covrigeii mici, de rontait, Delicii, nu numai copilaresti.

Dupa Pesah, cu familia, in tramvai, lasand la un colt, cladirea fastuoasa a Bibliotecii Centrale si peste drum  cofetaria “Tufli“ si “Clubul ofiterilor“  (azi cred ca acolo e ”Casa de cultura“), urcand dealul, trecand pe o strada frumoasa, un  bulevard – Lascar Catargiu, daca memoria nu-mi joaca o festa,  pe langa Universitate, am coborat la gradina minunata numita “Copou“ . M-i s-a aratat un arbore. Era  “teiul lui Eminescu “. Credeam ca e al unui iesean care traia sau murise.  Pe o terasa, ne-am instalat in jurul unei mese mai lungi, copiii au mancat prajitura sau inghetata, adultii, prajituri sau bere, cu alune.

Vizitam cunoscuti si familii inrudite, noi copiii, ne plictiseam, ni se serveau dulceata-serbet cu apa rece si prajituri de casa. Obligatii de bun simt, dar timpul trecea prea incet. Intr-un singur loc, la un frate al bunIcului, am intalnit un baiat de varsta mea si o fetita, ca sora mea. Nepotii care venisera cu parintii.  Parca il invidiam pe fratele meu, mai in varsta cu 4 ani decat mine, care ramanea la Focsani, pentru a putea sa-si petreaca o parte din vacanta de vara la Iasi. Aveam 2 veri si 3 verisoare, cam de varsta lui. Era pentru ei ca o petrecrere fara sfarsit.

Primeam de la bunic aproape zilnic, o ciocolata din  rezerva pe care el o pastra intr-un sertar incuiat. Doar el avea cheia. Mai erau si niste bani de cheltuiala. Timpul  se scurgea si a venit ziua plecarii acasa. Intr-una din valize, se aflau si daruri pentru noi. Condusi la gara, cu unii din familie, ne-am imbratisat si am simtit caldura celor apropiati.

Pana la varsta de 11 ani, eram in aceasta perioada la Iasi. Ritualul era asemanator, dar intelegerea mea si dorinta de a cunoaste era crescuta. Am vizitat familiile noastre in diverse cartiere  si strazi, ale orasului (Sf. Lazar, Arcului, langa gara, s.a.) Imi placea sa vad activitatea din atelierul de mobila. Mirosul specific si rezultatul muncii imi dadeau admiratie. Era bunicul meu.

Eram cel care punea intrebarile – “Ma Nishtana“,  adica prin ce se deosebeste seara respectiva, de alte seri.

sursa boston.com

Am continuat, de sarbtoarea respectiva, sa particip cu familia adunata, la bunicii focseneni, ani la rand, inainte de episodul moldovean. Si cand eram deja adolescent,  tot in stanga bunicului sedeam si intrebam.

La Iasi am mai fost in  doua cazuri de ingrijire a sanatatii. In August 1927, inainte de a intra in clasa I-a de liceu, am avut o apendicita care trebuia operata. Cum in oras, medicul – Dr. Iancu- era capabil, dar conditiile de spitalizare neprielnice, am plecat la Iasi. Internat la Spitalul de copii Dr. Ghelerter, pe strada Ghica Voda, am fost operat de Prof. Hortolomei, ca invitat pentru efectuarea interventiei chirurgicale. Tata i-a fost recunoscator prin plicul inmanat si cu restul femiliei, ca totul a decurs normal.

O mica intrerupere destul de nostima, dar interesanta. Profesorul,un barbat voinic, avand parul blond-roscat, crescut intre evrei, vorbea idish. Avea in cabinetul lui multi pacienti evrei si era Seful unei Clinici chirurgicale la Spitalul Sf. Spiridon. Unii evrei iesenii, il socoteau de ai lor si-l numisera “Ortolomeier.” Cand am intrat eu in Facultate, el fusese transferat la Clinica spitalului  “ Coltea“, din Bucuresti. Am avut ocazia sa-l cunosc  in anii 57-58, cand am fost trimis de spitalul unde lucram, la un curs de perfectionare, timp de 6 luni, langa alti 9 colegi din diverse spitale. Am invatat metode noi, acolo s-au facut primele operatii pe inima. El a fost Presedintele comisiei de examinare, la incheiere. El a semnat certificatul de absolvire.

Reiau povestirea, care se apropie de sfarsit. La inceputul lui septembrie am plecat sanatos acasa si in buzunarul jachetei, un stilou Waterman, printre primele aparute, cadoul bunicilor. Am inceput scoala la 15 septembrie si peste incheietura mainii stangi, purtam cu mandrie, ceasul “Omega“ cadoul bunicilor de acasa. L-am purtat ani multi, doar introducand in alta gaurica,  acul de inchidere al curelusei, inoita din cand in cand.

La 16 ani,  vara lui  1932,  muscat de un caine, am plecat din nou la Iasi, pentru tratamentul antirabic, neexistand  la noi.

Din anul 1934, am fost mai mult la Iasi decat in Focsani sau alte locuri.  Bunicii se mutasera mai spre centru, intr-un apartament mai confortabil, la etaj. La parter era magazinul si depozitul-atelier. Iacob, omul de nadejde si de ajutor, tot in putere, era prezent.Ne-am salutat. Scara numai a lor, si usa de la intrare se putea incuia. Fratele cel mic al mamei devenise tovaras cu tatal lui, care mai imbatranind, a redus din activitatea manuala. Verisoara mea cu care ma jucasem cu “Diabolo“ si altele, daduse si ea bacalareatul. Alta lume, dar totusi aceiasi. A amintirilor. Alta moda feminina, alte coafuri, barbatii fara mustati, daca le aveau. Automobile pe strazi, dar tramvaiele, alunecau pe aceleasi sine, scartaind si cu aceleasi numere, dupa directii: Pacurari, Copou, Gara,Tatarasi  sau in retur, unele se intorceau  si se putea  citi : Nicolina, Socola.

Facultatea de Medicina din Iasi - sursa calificativ.ro

Eu, cu un sentiment deosebit,de studiu si cu gandul la viitorul medic ce voi deveni, am pasit la 1 octombrie, in amfiteatrul mare al Facultatii de medicina. Ne-a salutat Decanul si am inceput sa cunosc colegii. Dupa numele citite din catalog, de secretarul in functie, intorceam capul, ca fiecare, catre cel care se rdica, spunand “ prezent”, pentru reperare cine e, ca sa ma alatur. Asa am cunoscut cativa, cu care am ramas prieteni, chiar in Bucuresti, fiecare medic cu specalitati deosebite. Au murit toti. Nici unul in Romania. In Israel sau USA. Eu sunt supravietuitorul.

Acolo mi-am  gasit viitoarea sotie si tot acolo, la doua luni dupa casatorie,  am trait pogromul din iunie 1941.

Gica.

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Tourist in Romania / 4 – “Pensiunea Carol”

As we were approaching the end of the first day of our trip we headed to the hotel that we had booked for the next two nights. The location was near the city of Targu Neamt, about 30 kilometers away of Piatra Neamt. Targu Neamt may be the smaller brother of Piatra, but it is more famous to some extent, as it is the place of birth made of the Romanian classic writer Ioan Creanga, has the ruins of a well preserved fortified castle also made famous in a classic piece of historic poetry, and is located in the heart of the Neamt (read Nae-Amtz)  monasteries land – the target of the next day of our trip which I will detail in the upcoming episodes.

a sign in the dark

Finding the place was not easy, although we had some directions and a GPS in our car. This may be one of the problems that the owners of the place will want to improve, as there are no signs from the center of the city, neither a clear explanation on the otherwise nicely designed Web site – http://www.pensiunea-carol.ro/index.php. The rain had stopped and the skies cleared by the time we reached the area, but also the night was falling. Luckily, the sign of the hotel was clearly visible and we eventually made it.

king Carol

We soon discovered that the name of the small hotel (‘pensiune’ designates in Romanian a small family hotel, sometimes not bigger than a B&B, this one is actually larger and growing) was honoring the first of the four crowned kings in the history of Romania. I do not know if the owners are really royalists, but they certainly seem to hold in high esteem king Carol the 1st, who is actually a well respected character in the modern history of the country, having reigned over the progress of Romania in the last third of the 19th century and first years of the 20th century in a period of building of the institutions of the modern state, getting full independence and what can be considered as the first integration of Romania in Europe.

the Carol at daylight

Next day in the morning we could see the hotel and the landscape around. ‘Pensiunea Carol’ is an example of the new style of tourism industry that I hope will be successful in this region and in other parts of Romania. Its owners used some of the European Community help for small businesses and built a small chalet at standards that compare without hesitation with the over the average similar places all over Europe. They had seven rooms by the time we stayed with them, but a few more were already built in a second building and with the extended capacity they were hoping to attract the attention not only of the occasional tourists but also of small groups and businesses looking for a quiet retreat place to meet, and combine work with some tourism and entertainment in a relaxed atmosphere.

Neamt landscape from the balcony

The environment is really charming with the swift slopes of the green hills in the Neamt area.

in the courtyard

The courtyard has enough parking place for the full extended occupancy, and some artifacts of the traditional agriculture and crafts give it a special color.

art on the walls

The interior of the buildings are clean, warm and accommodating. Paintings in a neo-classical style on the walls fit well in the atmosphere …

portrait of a Jew

… including this portrait of an old Jew from a past century.

dining room

The hotel has a good restaurant with a capacity that exceeds the number of guests in the hotel, sign that they plan to attract customers from the city. Actually there were a few also during our stay. Traditional Romanian food dominates the menu, as it does in the majority of the other places we had eaten during the trip. As tourists in Romania we did not ask for anything else but the food we are missing abroad, and Liliana had her first try of ‘mamaligutza cu branza‘ (cheese polenta).

where they full?

The owners took us on a tour of the facilities and the newly built extensions which include a wine cellar and a separate dining place with traditional grill and oven. Overall Pensiunea Carol is a wonderful base for the circuit of the monasteries around, it is well run by enthusiastic folks with entrepreneurial spirit and a touch for the local specificity. I recommend it and I hope that the place will succeed.

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Gica Manescu – Vacante iesene in copilarie (2)

Partea a doua a amintirilor lui Gica Manescu se potriveste cu perioada in care ne aflam si ne prilejuieste o comparatie intre sarbatorirea Pesah-ului acum si atunci.
———–

Eram la cateva zile inainte de Pesah. Pasca, achizitionata din timp, se odihnea intr-un cos din paie, ca o lada mare. Astepta  deschiderea. Rezerva de oua era facuta si ouale linistite erau in camera de langa bucatarie, o camara. Se dadeau jos dintr-un dulap vesela si tacamurile pentri zilele  restepective. Bunica (cred ca era in jur de 65 ani) era ajutata de fica ei cea mica, domnisoara care a terminat scoala si astepta sa ia locul surorii ei mai in varsta ca ajutoare in scriptologia magazinului familiei. Bunicul era patronul unui magazin – atelier de moblia importata din Austria si Germania, dar cu un maestru tapiter lucrau si reparau somiere, cu arcuri foarte bune, rezistente si elastice.

Venea seara de Seder. Masa intinsa si cu un adaus, cu cateva scaune imprumutate, aranjata cu tot dichisul si cele necesare, astepta oaspetii. Nu erau decat membri familiei. La ora indicata – bunicul in capul mesei  si eu la un loc de onoare, in stanga lui. Eram acela care trebuia sa puna intrebarile, scrise in suluri vechi, de vreme indelungata. Le stiam pe din afara, caci profesorul de ebraica s-a straduit sa le stim. Nu citite, ca era mult mai dificil, desi alfabetul ebraic fara vocale era  pentru noi dotat cu puncte si liniute.

Moshe Castel - Passover Seder - source christies.com

Cu vocea clara, putin emotionat la “premiera“, dar fara trac, am intrebat cu ce se deosebeste seara respectiva de celelate. Ca mancam numai pasca, nu sedem  pe scaune,  ci putin rezemati (in teorie) si altele, despre obiceiuri si traditii.

Fac o mica paranteza si relatez ce mi s-a intamplat mie aici, in urma cu vreo 10 ani. Vazusem pe o nota de plata pentru reparatia cazanului colector de apa de pe acoperis – DUD, trei litere DVD. Dupa o vreme am citit ceva si n-am inteles ce legatura avea cu cazanul. Erau acelasi trei litere. Am intrebat pe cineva si mi-a explicat ca e vorba de DAVID.  Se scrie DVD. Ignoranta, nu mult imbunatatita. Ramane intre noi.

Revin. Au venit explicatiile, pe care nu le intelegeam ca si altii dintre oaspeti, dar se stia cum decurge seara. Unchii mei aveau si ei carticelele respective si le frunzareau. S-a cantat dupa ce s-a terminat partea religioasa. Niste cantece mici,traditionale. Povestea unui ied.

A inceput partea principala – mancatul, bautul  spriturilor, putini erau  bautori de vin fara adaus de sifon. Copiii au avut si ei dreptul. Nu s-a cherchelit nimeni. Cu burti pline dupa supa cu galuste, peste, carnea cu garnituri, a venit desertul, care era pacat de refuzat. A urmat  goana catorva dintre cei mai tineri, sa gaseasca pasca ascunsa (aficoman) . Si despartirea cu sarutari si urari de bine.

Dar erau si zile ploioase. Ma jucam cu o verisoara de varsta mea (traieste in Holon, langa familia ei ) cu “Diabolo“ si nu aveam dexteritatea. Nu vazusem inca. Este ca un mosor mare, dar facut ca si cum ar fi doua conuri lipite la varfuri. E dintr-o guma tare si prin mijloc trece o sfoara subtire, lunga si cu manere la capete. Se azvarle in sus si se prinde iar. E foarte greu. Am vazut  mult ma tarziu, pe la spectacole de cabaret, jonglerii. Sau ne asezam la masa, la o partida de domino, fara o judecata, ci la potrivit punctele negre. Sau tintar cu boabe de fasole albe si negre,”spanzuratoarea“ joc de complectat cuvinte, “Popa prostul“ cu carti de joc, sau mai citeam din “Dimineata copiiilor”, pataniie lui Haplea si Frosa.  Cum vremea era in  general frumoasa m-am incumetat si mama a fost de acord sa ies pe strada.

Trei Ierarhi - sursa ceasuripentruromania.ro

Drumul era usor, fara pericole. Ieseam imediat la dreapta, treceam pe langa  gradina Teatrului idish –“La pomul verde”, intram in  scuarul din fata Teatrului National, admiram statuia lui Vasile Alecsandri (nu stiam inca de el ) si cu un betisor invarteam un cerc de lemn in  toate directiie. Fugeam dupa el.  Alte ori mergeam la stanga dupa iesirea din bolta, ajungeam in cativa pasi in strada Stefan cel Mare, pe  acelasi trotuar treceam pe langa cladirea impozanta a “Corpului 5 de armata“ ( nu stiam ce e aia si unchi mi-a explicat in cuvinte putine, sa prind esentialul. Nu ma interesa). Vedeam peste drum Mitropolia in care nu intram. De frica? De rusine? Ce sa fac acolo?  Mai incolo, ma opream si vis-a-vis este Biserica Trei Ierarhi, cu ziduri exterioare deosebite. Dar pasii ma duceau la Palatul de Justitie . In piateta mare si la mijloc troneaza impozanta, statuie ecvestra a lui Stefan cel Mare. Tot nu auzisem de el si am primit cateva informatii simple. Daca se intampla sa merg invers pe strada principala, pana in strada Cuza-Voda, ajungeam in “Piata Unirii“, in fata Hotelului Traian, statuia inalta a lui Alexandru Ioan  Cuza.

statuia lui Cuza Voda din Iasi - sursa ro.wikipedia.org

De el stiam cate ceva. Bunicul meu din Focsani, imi povestise intamplari din timpul Unirii si a aceluia care a fost Domnitorul celor doua Principate romane. La Focsani, in Piata Unirii, este un monument in amintirea evenimetului din 1859. Aici s-a cantat si imnul respectiv in timpul dansului horei de infratire.

Mai aveam, o curiozitate. Stiam ca mama invatase la scoala maicilor  catolice “Notre Dame de Sion“ si intr-o zi ne-am dus intr-acolo sa privim  pe din afara. Traversand strada  Cuza Voda, la o incrucisare o statuie impozanta a unui barbat in picioare. Citesc : Miron Costin.

statuia lui Miron Costin din Iasi - sursa okazii.ro

Nu stiam cine este si nici mama nu mi-a putut explica exact. Stia ca e cineva care parca era cronicar. Ne-am limltat la atata. Nu voiam sa stiu ce este un cronicar si ce face. Peste drum era deja scoala. Ziduri inalte ca nu se putea vedea nimic in interior . Am mers de-a lungul ei spre strada Ion Bratianu, am vazut intrarea cu o usa frumoasa si ne-am oprit cateva minute, mama gandind ca poate va iesi una din  maicile inca din  timpul ei, de peste 15 ani. N–a fost sa fie.

Institutul Notre Dame de Sion Iasi - sursa ziaruldeiasi.ro

Ma opresc aici. Cum se apropie sarbatoarea de Pesah, e bine venita, cred eu, relatarea, cum era acum peste 85 ani, cum era si ce se facea, intr-o casa a  unor evrei traditionalisti, de conditii materiale si sociale bune.

Dar ideile nu s-au terminat si amintirile revin in memorie. Daca aveti  rabdare  si dorinta, cum s-a scris, veti mai putea citi.

Gica

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Tourist in Romania / 3 – A Tower, a Church and a Museum

It started to rain in that afternoon of our first day of the trip. After the emotional encounter with my grand-parents house I told about in the previous episode we walked to the center of the city, to an area which I remembered so well. On a small hill stand the landmarks of Piatra Neamt, a clock tower and a church from the late 15th century marking the place were the city (mentioned already in the Russian Chronicles at the end of the 14th century) started.

Stefan the Great's Tower

The area was a part of a ‘Curte Domneasca’ which means a royal residential area built by king Stefan the Great – the most important voievod (king, prince) in the history of Moldavia – between 1468 and 1475. While only some underground cellars and defense walls remain from the original buildings, the church and the clock tower near-by built between 1497 and 1499 still dominate the landscape. The tower is 19 meter high.

St. John the Baptist Church

The Saint John the Baptist church has a devotional inscription that dates the building in the years 1497 and 1498.

Binecinstitorul şi de Hristos iubitorul Io Ştefan voievod, a început şi a zidit şi a săvârşit acest hram în numele Naşterii cinstitului şi slăvitului prooroc Ioan Botezătorul şi Înaintemergătorul, întru rugă sieşi şi doamnei sale Maria şi prea iubitului lor fiu Bogdan voievod, care a început a se zidi în anul 7005 (1497) iulie 15 şi s-a săvârşit în anul 7006 (1498) iar al domniei sale al 40 şi doilea curgător, luna noiembrie, 11 zile.

I. the honest and Christ lover Stefan the King, started and built and completed this donation in the name of the birth of the honest and beloved prophet Saint John the Baptist and the Predecessor, in prayer for himself and lady Maria and their beloved son prince Bogdan, that started the building in the year 7005 (1497) July 15 and completed it in the year 7006 (1498) and the 40th of his reign, eleven days in the month of November.

inside St. John the Baptist Church

The building style of the church is typical for the Moldavian churches, with wide roofs extending well beyond the walls. There is no exterior paintings here, but colored tiles in the wall give life to the rather sober enclosure. An unusual feature of this building is the arched entrance door in a Gothic shape – but we need to remember that Stefan was in the Romanian history what came closer to a prince of the Renaissance, entertaining political, commercial and artistic relations with the powers of Europe of his time.

St. John the Baptist icon

Walking inside the church the visitor immediately immerses in the warm atmosphere of the Romanian orthodox churches.  The churches built between the 14th and the 18th century were not high and imposing as in Western Europe. The relation between the church goer and God is much more familiar, distances between men and priests and icons and symbols are at hand touch.

icons inside the church

There is little natural light in many of these churches including the one in Piatra Neamt, and the light of the candles is all that illuminated the paintings and the altar for centuries. Most of the icons, religious objects and ornamentation in the church today dates from the late 18 and 19th century.

the History and Archeology Cucuteni Museum

It started to rain really heavily when we went out of the church, and we found refuge at the entrance of the beautiful building behind the tower. I was remembering it as a CEC (Saving Accounts Bank) building during my childhood, on the place of the local bank beautifully built in the first half of the 20th century in a style that accommodates well with the historical buildings. It dates from the years 1928-1930, the builder name was Carol Zani and the external ornamentation was made by a sculptor named Vincenzo Puschiasis. The biggest surprise we had was that it had become lately a museum, and not any museum, but a history and archeology museum dedicated to one of the first ancient cultures of Europe – the culture of Cucuteni.

inside the history and archeology museum

The civilization of Cucuteni gets its name from the place near Iasi where in 1884 were made the first significant archeological discoveries of the civilization that is considered the first great culture of Europe, precluding or contemporary with the cultures of Sumer and the early Egyptian civilizations. While the first archeological finds that were discovered date from 5000 BC, the peak of the civilization was reached around 3500BC and by that time it spread on a territory that covers a great part of Moldavia and Ukraine of today. Piatra Neamt is actually at the Southern extremity of the civilization, but many significant remains were discovered in the areas around.

vase from Izvoare

A few months before we had visited Malta and admired the remains of the megalithic civilizations which were conserved on that island (I wrote about them in my Maltese week cycle). What we were now seeing was a splendid museum dedicated to a culture which although did not leave imposing structures as in Malta (or maybe they did not survive) or in the British islands, rivals and exceedes these other civilizations with the extraordinary refinement of its art and crafts. Moreover – these are remains of a civilization which belongs to the continent itself – the first important one in the early history of Europe.

one legged cup from Dealul Ghindaru

We were the only visitors in the museum. As we entered we immediately got a proof of the hospitality which Moldavians extend to their visitors. A curator immediately showed up and she guided us through the two levels of the exhibition, with detailed, competent and informative explanations about the museum, the civilization of Cucuteni and its predecessors represented in the museum, about each object or group of objects that was worth talking about. And much was worth talking about. All was spoken in the sweet language with that accent my grandparents were talking with and which came back to me from memory in a fraction of a moment.

'benocular' vase from Trusesti

The museum was open in 2005 and is also known as the museum of ‘eneolitic art’. It is a branch of the history and archeology museum of Piatra Neamt and I should mention that a museum exists here since the 1930s, created by a local priest named Constantin Matasa who was a personality of the city in that period.

(video source VisitNeamt)

Here is a video on youTube that was filmed in the rooms of the museum.

crown vase from Dealul Ghindaru

In 2009 an exhibition was open at the New York University exposing for the first time the American public to the history and artifacts of the East European early civilizations. Objects from the museum crossed the Atlantic for that exhibition. Here is the New York Times note published at that time – http://www.nytimes.com/2009/12/01/science/01arch.html

the 'Hora' from Frumusica

The exhibits are remarkable. While a few of the most representatives objects of the pre-Cucuteni and Cucuteni civilizations are today exposed in other places and especially in the Museum of National History in Bucharest there is a wide range of objects here that present a very consistent and rich image of the development of the culture, its principal forms and evolution in styles.

anthropomorphic figurine

The explanations helped us to understand also the process of discovery and reconstruction of the pieces. Only if more than 85% of the object is found and authenticated the object is included in the collection. The range of styles varies from big ornate vases to objects of cult of special forms, anthropomorphic and animal representations. The sensation of refinement and artistic vibration is present everywhere.

animal-shaped lamp

This place is really unique in Romania and probably in Europe as well. It was for us a surprise and a revelation, one of the first discoveries in this journey. It is worth being known and visited by anybody who happens to be in the Neamt area, and even worth a special trip. In a Michelin guide I would give it without hesitation a 3 stars grade.

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